Writing about Iris Gris, has had me wear a lot of peach and/ or iris fragrances of late. I even wore ‘Isotta’ three days in a row, which made me want to give it a proper post.
Despite me having just admitted at Olfactoria’s Travels in her ‘People in Perfumeland’ series, that I do prefer classic fragrance pyramids over linear, star-shaped, circular or other non-pyramid compositions, this is of course a truth with modifications. There are several exceptions, Isotta being one of them.
The perfumer is Enrico Buccella and Isotta is a release under his brand Cerchi nell’acqua. S. Buccello is also the founder of Sigilli and Les Voiles Dépliées and is the nose behind Olfattivo Laboratorio’s Alambar. Cerchi nell’Acqua means circles in the water and the name stands for the fragrance composition for this particular line, described as “a fragrant energy that is gently dispersed in the regular circular manner of circles in water”
The opening is citrus dancing like sunbeams on the sea. After that, it’s true; Isotta spreads out her layers in circular movements. Imagine layers of notes violets, peach both green and ripe ones, sandalwood, warm woody iris and discreet musky vanilla and through these layers, the olfactory equivalent of (candy) pop-rocks explosions, send out through the circles, and forming into separate bubbles. It makes the perfume tickle your nose throughout the wearing time. Despite its decidedly modern feel, the thing that kept coming back to me while writing this was Vivaldi’s concerto for flautino in C RV 443. It’s build around a main theme, which returns (ritornello) played by the orchestra and soloist, intercepted by different solo variations for the recorder. Listen: the dry woodiness, sprightly and virtuoso flute notes and the balancing work of the string orchestra led by the crisp cembalo and the mellow lute. The way this allegro movement is lively and bouncing, yet somehow still sober, to my senses matches what Isotta is. And tickle, snap, pop all the way through…
Notes: hesperidic notes, violet, peach, iris, sandalwood, musk, vanilla, amber.
Isotta was one of my purchases while in Rome with Suzanne, Mark and Ines last summer. I like to buy fragrances while away as a memory, so in this instance it was important to me that it was an Italian brand. Isotta with its iris/ peach combo had instant appeal, but many other from this line were very interesting too. Italian in style, yet very refined and thoroughly modern.