Today some quick thoughts from me on three new releases. How very up to date I feel when I can actually write 2015 behind all three.
Guerlain Le Plus Beau Jour De Ma Vie (Beau Jour for short). I think Beau Jour is a cute little number. It smells of orange blossom sugar-coated almonds and fluffy little clouds on a clear blue sky on a summer’s day. So yes, Beau Jour paints the image of a wedding day. It’s cosy yet summery, girly yet not so much that it can’t be worn by women, it’s sweet, but won’t make you feel like you’re a walking candy shop. It has an effortlessness that is not bestowed on too many perfumes in the candied genre. Beau Jour is not ground-breaking, but as a take on a wedding perfume or for anyone who likes sugared almonds and orange blossoms in the style of Hilde Soliani’s Conaffetto and Kilian’s Sweet Redemption, this is a fine perfume and as always with Guerlain, an exceptionally smooth composition.
Sandwiched between two historic houses is Italian newcomer brand Rubini with their first fragrance; Fundamental. Fundamental’s opening displays a honeyed Tokay wine over cognac. Add to that a pungent currant note and a distant leather note and I feel this is more masculine territory. The liquor becomes ever more grape, almost raisin,-like and there’s a herbal dryness which makes me associate a non-present smoke. As opposed to the two other perfumes I write about today which have decidedly outdoors-imagery, this feels like an indoor fragrance. Something conceived to give an almost stuffy, as in non-airy, feel (gentleman’s club/ elegant leather coated bar… that kind of thing) and being worn on indoor occasions. The fragrance has excellent longevity, and fairly linear sticking to that chewy, generous booziness.
Hermes Le Jardin de Monsieur Li (short M. Li) When I first tried this straight after it came out, it was simply too early in the year and too cold to even contemplate such a perfume, so it’s because of a great friend who send me a sample, that I had a second try of M. Li. This time I found it very pleasant and summer-suitable. M. Li is sheer and transparent, a scent almost more than a perfume. I’m thinking that it would wear nicely as a body mist underneath your real perfume in the warmer months, making you feel incredibly elegant, and a little secretive, for splashing on such an extravaganza. Notes are kumquat, jasmine and sap. M. Li is a little sweet, the jasmine non-indolic, the sap easy-going non-crunchy and there’s no (detectable, and to me dreaded) cedar note, that is so often present in M. Ellena’s perfumes. It’s silky and light and whispers ‘fruity-floral’ so softly, blink and you’ll miss it.
Disclaimer; pics by me, samples of La Plus Beau Jour de Ma Vie and M. Li, send to me by sweet Rosenrot, and Fundamental send by Andrea Rubini after winning a sample on FB.
Review of Rubini Fundamental parfum; CaFleureBon