With Pomélo Paradis, Atelier Cologne has added another fragrance to their original line, which stays true to exploring new territory in the cologne style. Here it’s new star is pomelo (or a mix of grapefruit and orange) as the citrus top, making it somewhat sweeter than the usual cologne by staying away from sharp citric flavours. It’s sparkly, as if little bursts of grapefruit sticks out from the juicy core here and there, and as orange flowers add sweetness I’m reminded just a little of lollypops and lemonade, without it ever being explicitly candy-like. On the strip I can smell a very faint, very light ambery dry-down, which is lost on my dry skin, but might be there for others.
While testing the new release Pomélo Paradis one phrase which kept coming up was ‘sunny disposish’- I think certain Jeeves and Wooster fans will immediately know what I’m talking about, whereas others might need a bit of help. P.G. Wodehouse’s novels about Jeeves, the brilliant and know-it-all valet to Bertie Wooster’s dim-witted young English aristocrat navigate through the dangers of bachelorhood, in London, NY and the English countryside in the 1930´s. Spraying Pomelo Paradis instantly makes me think of Hugh Laurie’s Wooster singing this silly Gershwin song called ‘A Sunny Disposish’’.
I could imagine this one being great if you were looking for a citrus/ cologne fragrance that felt more orange and less acidic, especially for spring and summer. It’s simply a fragrance of a very sunny disposish and good humour, matching persons and/or weather of the same inclination.
It should come as no great surprise that Silver Iris is my favourite of all the Atelier Colognes, it’s iris duh! And this one is lovely. Some have questioned the sense in choosing a name so similar to Serge Lutens’ iconic Iris Silver Mist. But for me there was never an overlap in thought. In ISM the silver belongs to the mist, the silvery moonlight shimmer and earth’s damp breath, whereas in Silver Iris, the silver belongs to the iris dressed in silver sequined dress at New Years. It’s festive*, and dare I say it; lively almost upbeat… This I find comes from the (typical AC) opening citrus burst, here of mandarins which makes it sweet and ties nicely with the following blooming of a gorgeous iris note, verging on beige suede. Beautifully this is all kept from going all blue by adding the sweetness of violet-notes and green feel of the leaves. Drying down to me is still all iris, but with a hint of musk and amber added. Thankfully patchouli is kept in the background to just give a little structure to the dryer side of the rooty iris feel. This is a great choice of iris fragrance, if you like your iris fragrances a little sweet while still dry rather than powdery, and let’s not forget; zippy rather than moody.
Ok, so Silver Iris is not exactly as frivolously sunny as Pomélo Paradis, but it could probably spend a day or two in Pomelo’s company, and I could even see them really going to town together, before Silver Iris would go bonkers and need a bit of restorative sane loneliness. Perhaps the Jeeves to Pomelo’s Wooster…
“The rain may pitter patter, it really doesn’t matter, for life can be delish with a sunny disposish!”
*Yes, Gaia already wrote that, I know, but I agree 100%. Here’s her great review of Silver Iris. And there isn’t a lack of brilliant reviews of Silver Iris; here’s Tara’s at OT, Lucas’s at Chemist, CFB by Mark Behnke, The scented hound. And for Pomélo Paradis CFB
** Samples offered to me by Atelier Cologne
***pics mine, apart from the jeeves and wooster one