Sunbeam Heliotrope- Oriza L. Legrand Heliotrope Blanc (2014)

I am going to write about another of Oriza L. Legrand’s soliflore fragrances; heliotrope blanc.

And since I already talked about soliflores and Oriza L. Legrand’ when I wrote about ‘Royal Œillet’, this post will be a bit shorter than usual 😉36026

At this point, I have to let you in on a little secret; I own a bottle of a rare Guerlain: Heliotrope Blanc 000, or so called triple extract, so of course I was extra curious to see how Oriza’s would compare. Especially as so far I would say that Legrand makes an effort to try and make their perfumes as purposely old-fashioned as possible. What I thought at first might just a trick to stick out in the niche perfume jungle, I’ve come to respect for their insistence in sticking to their program.

Would Heliotrope Blanc try to be complex and mysterious, would it be something different to a (blue/ purple) heliotrope or would it be more in line with the old style soliflores I talked of before?

How’s the white heliotrope white? In this case it has an old fashioned cleanliness about it that oozes white and light with a touch of floral smelling soap. It’s yellow like little sunbeams dancing on lilies of the valley through washing lines of white sheets hanging out to dry. There’s a light powderiness to begin with, with a bit of very light tinge of greenery. The powder is very anti-boudoir in style, more talcum than make-up, and feels like a comforting little cloud of homeliness.heliotropium_arborescens There’s sweetness, of course, but at least in the beginning it feel more like it’s coming from the rice giving a milk-like appearance, than an almond or candy like sweetness. It has an innocence about it, a cuteness without being twee or girlish. It dries down yet a little sweeter and more powdery with the added tonka bean. It’s a comfy fragrance, if your sense of comfort is going into a bet of new washed and ironed linen, feeling its coolness against a warm cheek.

Top; Orange Blossom, Heliotrope, Violet leaves. Heart; Almond, Heliotrope, Mimosa, Iris. Base; Musk, Heliotrope, Rice powder, Benzoin, Tonka Bean.

If your typical heliotrope fragrances are too candy-sweet/ almondy and the typical powders of comfort fragrances like Nirmal, Teint de Neige or Verte Violette are too powdery, Heliotrope Blanc would be worth trying. Equally, while it might still not quite win over the heliotropophobes, this would be a good place to start if it is the almond part of heliotrope that causes worry.

Have you smelled white heliotrope, and how does if differ from the blue/purple heliotrope? How do you like your soliflores?

Disclaimer; samples bought from Luckyscent. Feature pic by me, and I couldn’t find attribution to the two other found online.

6 thoughts on “Sunbeam Heliotrope- Oriza L. Legrand Heliotrope Blanc (2014)

  1. Really nice, clever descriptions here Asali, which really get the feel of this one across.

    Well I am a heliotropophobe but it is the sweet almond facet I can’t cope with so maybe I could tolerate this – at the very least. I’m a big fan of rice powder and wish it was used more often.

    How do you like it compared to your rare Guerlain? Very hard for anything to compete I’m sure.

    Lovely impressionist-style illustration!

    • Dear Tara, thank you, and I know you and Vanessa are not fond of heliotrope, I’m also worried that this one might be too sweet on your skin, although I find the sweetness to come from a.o. the rice powder so it feels different.
      You are ahead of me, I’ll write up on the Guerlain next, but I can say so much; it’s different from what we normally associate with guerlain which makes it such an interesting time travel.

  2. Such a pretty, delicate review, yet the triple mention of heliotrope in the notes list has me all of a jitter. All the facets of heliotrope can be problematic to me, not just the almond one, hehe. Yet, I am still intrigued by the milky rice aspect which I see also appealed to Tara. If that could be conveyed in a non-heliotrope way, I might still be in, but ‘top to bottom’ heliotrope would normally be a deterrent. 😉

    • I know, I know… I mean, the dry down gets a bit too powder sweet for me too to whole heartedly consider getting more of this. I really would be so intrigued though, to see how it would do with you two heliotropophobes, because it has those other aspects too. Unfortunately I only have the 0.7 Luckyscent sample so not really enough to share now.
      I do know what it’s like to have those ‘no-goes’ though. I smelled something recently in a newly opened niche shop (Copenhagen has it’s first ‘niche’ shop, I hope it lasts!) and all I could say was “imortelle and cumin- no thank you!”- so it has to be so cleverly blended for me to handle those notes. It goes straight to some place in my brain that instantly feels violated. (my ears feel the same with reggae BTW ;-))

  3. A very charming review of what sounds like an extremely feminine retro perfume.

    Rice powder is an appealing aspect of this one, I’d agree.

    White heliotrope I grew one season. It has a much stronger scent than the purple varieties and more lift, the fragrance veers towards jasmine, heady, almost stuffy, and very sweet. I honestly prefer the purple kind for scent, but the white is very attractive. I noticed the bees preferred the purple too…

    • Thank you Blacknall, I’m very glad that you’re able to tell me about the scent of white heliotrope, because I seached the internet for all possible combinations of white heliotrope and fragrance, without turning out anything usefull at all. I thought it was funny that ‘White heliotrope’ perfumes in general seems to be airier, lighter, when white flowers are supposedly more indolic exactly due to their lack of colour to attract insects. Although, I take it in your case to little avail; I almost feel a bit sorry for it.
      I’m extra glad that you come up with this fact, as I’m trying to get my head around describing the vintage Heliotrope Blanc by Guerlain, and there’s a definite scent of lilac in there, which would probably be from the jasmine-like/ heady fragrance you mention.

Comments are closed.