September Blues- Miu Miu fragrance 2015 and Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au thé bleu 2015

I was looking around the local mall when I saw the cute new release from Miu Miu, the first fragrance for the Prada off-spring brand, and with a bottle like that I just had to get a sample. They also had the new Bvlgari au thé bleu, and then on top it turns out they are both by perfumer Daniela Andrier, honestly, it was crying out to be blogged about.

I’ll start with what is surely going to be a new crowd pleaser; Miu Miu. They just nailed it with that bottle and the cutissimo perfume advert me thinks.60081 Somebody called the bottle the ‘LouLou of 2015’, and I agree it has a brilliant blue and red colour scheme, the geometric shape and the retro spirit. I can imagine many buying it purely because of the bottle, but on top I would say that its contents match bottle-style. Miu Miu the perfume is basically two things on top of each other, it’s the hip rose/patch/oud combo, which lends the perfume a shine of the cool and well-known, but on top of it is a juicy green accord opener, that at first I couldn’t pin down, until I remembered that it smells a lot like original Gucci Envy, the Roucel lily of the valley. This opening makes it delightfully retro compared to most of the fruity-floral-candy on the perfume shelves. The ‘oud’, which isn’t oud but a Giveaudan ingredient called akigalawood, smells soft and inoffensive, and gives the greenness something to bounce off, as well as forming the natural bond with rose making it accessible to the contemporary nose.

Miu Miu would possibly be a great perfume to gift a young woman, it’s well done and a little quirky in a hip way, and did I mention the flacon? I sprayed it in the morning and when it was still with me by the evening I was getting a little bit tired of it. But obviously I’m not the target audience, and the fact that I didn’t tire of it before is a feat these days – for most new perfumes.

Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au thé bleu is another new perfume* by Daniela Andrier. This is the place where I confess, that the icon that is Thé Vert (by JC Ellena), isn’t really ‘me’. I do like green tea, but the astringent (‘fresh’)/ seaweedy smell is not something I want in my perfume.

However oolong tea, being a semi-oxidised tea, has more of the black tea’s full bodied aroma. Au thé bleu’s main notes are lavender, (blue) oolong tea and iris. When I first read that, I had to let it sink in for a moment, yes three bluish notes, I got the colour palette, but the perfume palette wouldn’t quite come together as a hallucinatory smell in my nostrils. Good thing it did for M Andrier. The opening is a herbal sweet balanced lavender, a cooling fragrance to which she adds the pleasant faint smoked aroma of the oolong tea. Some discreetly candied violets ease it on your nose, and take the lavender away from any room-spray or cheap cologne associations one could have.

My first impression of the iris, was that it reminded me a lot of a stronger version of Bottega Veneta. The iris goes in waves from nude, pale suede to floral, and all the time balancing the herbal of the perfume aspect to stay refreshingly leafy. The iris stays in the dry down, adding a little almondy sweetness and some fluffy white musk. Au thé bleu is a calming perfume which keeps its cool, like a breeze on a hot day, but it isn’t a chiffon-like perfume or a skin scent, it’s got great presence and sillage.

I loved this and could have seen myself with a bottle all the way down to the white musk. There really isn’t much of it and it’s in no way overpowering, it’s just a bit disappointing in an otherwise brave and beautiful creation. I do hope I might still get over it.


If you like perfumes like Hiris, Bottega Veneta, Gris Clair, Clair de Musc, Prada any iris infusion or perhaps even Dior Homme, I would say you should give it a try.

*She’s busy these days; next (among other things) Prada brings out a new Infusion called Oeillet (carnation) also by DA, and I can’t wait to see what she makes of another of my favourite notes.

Feat pic by me and advert is Miu Miu.

12 thoughts on “September Blues- Miu Miu fragrance 2015 and Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au thé bleu 2015

  1. Lovely review, Asali, of modern perfumes this time 🙂 They sounded interesting in THE beginning coming from M Andrier but alas. Maybe THE Bleu is a good replacement for Dior Homme for my boyfriend. Really love what Daniela Andrier did with orange blossom in Gucci edp and I have become quite a fan of her but these 2 fragrances sound a bit as a disappointment but who knows how THE Bulgari works out on skin. Have a lovely weekend !

    • Thank you E., you know white musk is a pet hate of mine, it really is a tiny amount, perhaps you/ your boyfriend won’t even notice, it’s definitely worth a go. I don’t think I’d call the perfumes a disappointment, I even liked thé Bleu a lot

  2. That is a cutissimo perfume advert! I tried in vain to find Miu Miu yesterday and that doesn’t happen often with a mainstream release. It was partly (mostly) for the bottle and the fact it sounded different to most youth market releases. Good work all round.

    I was interested to read at the end how much you liked the Bulgari. I take it the lavender at the start didn’t bother you? I usually find it too cool and medicinal. Always up for some iris though. Too bad about the white musk in the base. I tend to think that the money ran out when you get to the base of a mainstream perfume and it dissolves into that.

    • The lavender is almost floral, but still has that calming, cooling effect. I definitely think you should try it. I love the ‘money ran out’ theory’ 🙂 White musk and so-called ‘blonde wood’, should be banned for blandness 😉
      About Miu Miu, Undina put it brilliantly today with ‘I can’t say anything bad about it and welcome it into the mainstream section’, and I even think I might find Miu Miu a better fragrance than she did TF Noir.
      I can’t wait to hear what you think.

  3. It’s interesting: I think I skipped trying Miu Miu’s perfume because I didn’t like the bottle. Ok, I’ll give it a try the next time I see it. But that bottle definitely isn’t me (and I didn’t like Lou Lou as well).
    As to Bvlgari, now I look forward to trying it at a store: lavender + blue bottle… And Sephora has 10 ml bottle of this perfume! Thank you for the information: I could have missed it.

    • It’s so funny about bottles, I remember EauMG hating the Opera Collection bottles by HdP, which I love, and there are many examples of bottles hates/ loves so I see how Miu Miu can not cater for everyones tastes. I think it’s cute, and I can see the appeal of having it on your dresser if you’re someone with just a few perfumes.
      I’m very curious about how you’ll like Bvlgari Bleu. And lucky you that you have the 10ml bottles, I would have been tempted at 10ml, but we don’t have them here. BTW talking of blue bottles and HdP opera collection, reminds me that they are now out at a lower price tag, in the ‘normal’ HdP bottles but coloured glass, also one in blue, perhaps you should check that one out the next time you’re out sniffing perfume. I have no idea if you’ll like it, but just a thought 🙂

  4. That Miu Miu both sounds and looks cute! 🙂 I have to find it in a store here so I can go smell it.

    On the other hand, the Bulgari one doesn’t sound that appealing to me…

    • Yes, the Miu Miu is a kind of girls-night-out thing, it might be for you. I’m glad you find it cute too 🙂 I know, you’re scared of the white musk in Bvlgari, right? But, I can see that on the whole Miu Miu might be closer to something you’ll like.

  5. Came across one of the tear out samples for Miu Miu and thought it was a good and clever perfume. Not too much one thing or the other, and I can imagine adolescents and twenty somethings wearing this one easily. Loved the bottle-very Lou lou as you say.

    • Hi Blacknall, I’m glad you too found both the bottle and the perfume good. I really was pleasantly surprised, and took it as a sign that the mainstream market might be (slowly) going in a slightly braver direction. Time will tell.

  6. Oh, I thought Michel Almairac was the nose behind Bottega Veneta – unless he collaborated with Andrier? Sometimes perfumers double – or even triple – up in the creative process! I mention it as my elderly friend only has three bottles of perfume (all of which I gave her) and two of the three are by Almairac – the other being Burberry Women. I thought really that was an odd chance.

    As for your lovely review of both these scents, I think a modern Loulou is a perfect summation of the Miu Miu bottle, and the juice itself sounds a lot more edgy that it could be with so much retro cuteness overload in the packaging!

    Re the Bvlgari, I am always wary of lavender but the overall picture you paint of this one is very dreamy and appealing.

    • You are absolutely right, thanks for noticing this perfumista brain faillure! Will correct immediately 🙂 She did the pour homme and Knot, but not Bottega Veneta.
      I was really very pleasantly surprised by both, the niche market out there needs to up its game, mainstream is snapping at its heels 😉 I am not a fan of lavender either, but here it’s such a different combo, that it hasn’t got the usual effect.

Comments are closed.