I was looking around the local mall when I saw the cute new release from Miu Miu, the first fragrance for the Prada off-spring brand, and with a bottle like that I just had to get a sample. They also had the new Bvlgari au thé bleu, and then on top it turns out they are both by perfumer Daniela Andrier, honestly, it was crying out to be blogged about.
I’ll start with what is surely going to be a new crowd pleaser; Miu Miu. They just nailed it with that bottle and the cutissimo perfume advert me thinks. Somebody called the bottle the ‘LouLou of 2015’, and I agree it has a brilliant blue and red colour scheme, the geometric shape and the retro spirit. I can imagine many buying it purely because of the bottle, but on top I would say that its contents match bottle-style. Miu Miu the perfume is basically two things on top of each other, it’s the hip rose/patch/oud combo, which lends the perfume a shine of the cool and well-known, but on top of it is a juicy green accord opener, that at first I couldn’t pin down, until I remembered that it smells a lot like original Gucci Envy, the Roucel lily of the valley. This opening makes it delightfully retro compared to most of the fruity-floral-candy on the perfume shelves. The ‘oud’, which isn’t oud but a Giveaudan ingredient called akigalawood, smells soft and inoffensive, and gives the greenness something to bounce off, as well as forming the natural bond with rose making it accessible to the contemporary nose.
Miu Miu would possibly be a great perfume to gift a young woman, it’s well done and a little quirky in a hip way, and did I mention the flacon? I sprayed it in the morning and when it was still with me by the evening I was getting a little bit tired of it. But obviously I’m not the target audience, and the fact that I didn’t tire of it before is a feat these days – for most new perfumes.
Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au thé bleu is another new perfume* by Daniela Andrier. This is the place where I confess, that the icon that is Thé Vert (by JC Ellena), isn’t really ‘me’. I do like green tea, but the astringent (‘fresh’)/ seaweedy smell is not something I want in my perfume.
However oolong tea, being a semi-oxidised tea, has more of the black tea’s full bodied aroma. Au thé bleu’s main notes are lavender, (blue) oolong tea and iris. When I first read that, I had to let it sink in for a moment, yes three bluish notes, I got the colour palette, but the perfume palette wouldn’t quite come together as a hallucinatory smell in my nostrils. Good thing it did for M Andrier. The opening is a herbal sweet balanced lavender, a cooling fragrance to which she adds the pleasant faint smoked aroma of the oolong tea. Some discreetly candied violets ease it on your nose, and take the lavender away from any room-spray or cheap cologne associations one could have.
My first impression of the iris, was that it reminded me a lot of a stronger version of Bottega Veneta. The iris goes in waves from nude, pale suede to floral, and all the time balancing the herbal of the perfume aspect to stay refreshingly leafy. The iris stays in the dry down, adding a little almondy sweetness and some fluffy white musk. Au thé bleu is a calming perfume which keeps its cool, like a breeze on a hot day, but it isn’t a chiffon-like perfume or a skin scent, it’s got great presence and sillage.
I loved this and could have seen myself with a bottle all the way down to the white musk. There really isn’t much of it and it’s in no way overpowering, it’s just a bit disappointing in an otherwise brave and beautiful creation. I do hope I might still get over it.
If you like perfumes like Hiris, Bottega Veneta, Gris Clair, Clair de Musc, Prada any iris infusion or perhaps even Dior Homme, I would say you should give it a try.
*She’s busy these days; next (among other things) Prada brings out a new Infusion called Oeillet (carnation) also by DA, and I can’t wait to see what she makes of another of my favourite notes.
Feat pic by me and advert is Miu Miu.