Semi-Nostalgia or “The Deluded World” – Inedité Lubin (2009) and La Dandy Parfums D’Orsay (2010)

It’s not that I’m lacking in the perfume sample department, but it seems that at the moment I’m in an odd kind of semi-nostalgic perfumista state. I have started craving samples that I got some time ago, and which have now either been passed on or were hidden in some far away corner.

Out of the blue I got a craving for D’Orsay’s La Dandy and Lubin’s Inedité. I think I tried them at roughly the same time in about 2010, and I’m pretty sure that although well used at the time, I didn’t touch them again until now.

Inedité was created by Thomas Fontaine in 2009. It starts out nectarish fruity and with a warm spicy feeling created I believe by cloves and a faint cinnamon. In the beginning there’s also a slightly metallic note, perhaps lilac, which sits well with the emergence of a somewhat raspy patchouli. Through the spices the patchouli corset seems to reveal a retro chypre bone structure, however, Inedité quickly gets dressed up in fluffy lace of powdery iris and heliotrope, and adds a bit of lipstick rose. Although very feminine, this part isn’t girly, as the spices and patch keeps the powder puff oh-la-la so elegant. A boudoir of the finest sort.

La Dandy by Parfums D’Orsay is from 2010 starts off as one would expect from such a name; treading ground between masculine and feminine. Bergamot as well as a spice blend of green cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves mix with a creamy ylang ylang and soft, silky jasmine. It’s like wearing a man’s shirt, his perfume still lingering, on top of your white floral perfume. A wonderful peach, first skin like, then sweeter and sweeter, takes over and a peach vanilla desert is the result. We are very far away from La Dandy of the beginnings, as this really is gourmand territory. Sandalwood takes over from vanilla, honey and co, as the perfume dries down. Foody sweetness in combination with perfume will probably never be my thing, even if I do love a good peach note.

I enjoyed my little nostalgic trip back in the time before oudmania, flimsy skin scents, insane price increase etc. And whereas I will probably not be adding these to my collection, they are absolutely worth looking at if either genre is your thing.

I was a little perplexed at this sudden onset of craving for samples I didn’t even know I remembered! But an e-mail from a friend made me aware of what might lie beneath it; the number of new releases which now no longer hide the fact that what they use has nothing to do with the real deal; petalia, timberwood, silkwood I could go on. Are people now so familiar with ambroxan and friends, that it sells putting it on the box? I should like to think that I like the perfumes I do, regardless of what it says on the packet. But perhaps, even if just for a moment, I longed for the more dreamy, less realistic approach.

This all made me think of this wonderful little Mozart song called ‘Die Betrogene Welt’/ The Deluded World, yes, sometimes we all want to be deceived.

The rich fool bedecked with gold,
Catches Selina’s eye:
The worthy man is send packing,
She chooses the Dandy for husband.
Repentance soon limps along
In the wake of the splendid wedding feast
For the world wants to be deceived:
Therefore let it be deceived.

Beate, who not many days before,
Was the queen of all wantons,
Begins to wear penitential purple,
And decorates pulpit and altar.
Swayed by outward appearances,
Many think her pure as an angel.
For the world wants to be deceived:
Therefore let it be deceived.

When I kiss my little Caroline,
I tenderly vow to be true forever;
She pretends not to know
Any other young man but me.
Once, when Chloe had lured me away,
Damis took my place.
If all the world can be deceived:
I too can be deceived!

Chr. F. Weiße

The brilliant translation is by Richard Stokes from his ‘The Book of Lieder’ (faber and faber)

The song is sung by Anne Sofie von Otter accompanied by Melvyn Tan

Pic by me.

 

19 thoughts on “Semi-Nostalgia or “The Deluded World” – Inedité Lubin (2009) and La Dandy Parfums D’Orsay (2010)

  1. I love the sound of Inedite. 🙂
    It’s funny how sometimes years pass and you remember something you tried long ago (in my case probably dismissed at the time) and somehow now it smells perfect.

    • Yes, Inedité is really beautiful.
      It is funny about that. I wonder if I expected loads of even better stuff to come along, and instead of better it’s different, which is what makes you go back and have a second look.

  2. Love that main pic. Your style is really evolving beautifully.

    As someone who is forever deluding herself, I appreciate the Mozart lyrics. Although like you, I’m not one for foody sweetness in perfumes, I enjoyed your writing – particularly the “patchouli corset” and the “fluffy lace” of iris and heliotrope.

    I agree, it’s interesting when an older samples/s calls you back.

    • Thank you dear Tara, that’s really sweet of you. It’s funny, from starting out as a bit of a dare for myself, I would now find it strange to use other main pictures than my own, good or bad.
      I don’t think you’re deluding yourself, not anymore than the average ‘niche’ ( 😉 ) person anyway.

      • That’s great to hear. It shows how good it is to take a little risk and push yourself sometimes.

        It’s funny, my sister once described me as “niche” and she had no idea of the use of that word in perfumery. As hard as it is sometimes, it still beats being mainstream, I guess 🙂

        • I remember, and I thought it was such a great expression. If you got the choice would you choose mainstream? I think not 🙂

  3. Love the “patchouli corset”! Your very imaginative expressions always amaze me. La Dandy sounds like quite a showman, sweet and smooth. I love the sound of Inedité so much, who wouldn’t want a touch of elegance from time to time? 😉

    • Thank you Magpie, that’s just it; we want elegance! And when we do, we want it full on, deception and all 🙂

  4. YUUUUSSSSSS!!!!! I have been thinking of Le Fleu D’Issey all week and I loved what you wrote. Also my signature scent, it defined who I was at the time: artistic, independent, tough and willing to spend what little money I had on a very expensive bottle of fine perfume!!

    Thanks for feeling the same!!!

    • Hi Kiley, thank you for taking time to comment and share your love for ‘le feu’ it truly was an era, wasn’t it? Something so very special.

  5. Love the picture!

    I don’t think I’ve ever “rediscovered” a sample I wasn’t wowed by from the first go around. But I keep going back to some perfumes in hope to like it more that time… or plainly not remembering that I disliked it on the previous N attempts. I even started marking those samples in my database not to waste time and skin RE.

    I think brands are required now to put those ingredients on the box. Though I personally prefer not to know: if I can smell it, I can smell it (and either like or dislike the scent). Otherwise I do not care.

    • Great 🙂
      Good point, I certainly know about going back to samples in the hope of liking them more, or just’understanding’ them. I have now made a box for things that I don’t need to try again which feels good, a bit like they won’t contaminate all the others 😉

      I didn’t mean putting ingredients on the box, I actually meant as in the PR, they now gladly announce; this is full of NO oud and fake flowers! (exaggerating a tiny bit) that was what puzzled me. Obviously if a perfume smells good to me I don’t care what went inside it, but I still think it’s rather weird.

  6. Notwithstanding the reference to heliotrope and cloves(!), I really like the sound of both of these scents, and echo the others’ comments by saying how much I appreciate your sumptuous and whimsical imagery. And illustrations, as ever. I also liked your assessment of the state of the perfume nation: ‘oudmania, flimsy skin scents, insane price increases’.

    I wish I could be drawn to my old samples though – they are mostly still languishing. I have a D’Orsay too somewhere, but not this one…

    • Well, it might happen yet, this odd attraction to older samples. I think I had just one too many ambroxan and iSo E super under the nose, combine that with as we have agreed on: Oud, skin scents and fantasy pricing, and you get this wonderful calm feeling by going back and visiting fragrances which scream less for your attention.
      Thank you for your appreciation as always of my illustrations 🙂

  7. What a charming post! Patchouli does cinch in some of the adipose tissue of perfumes!

    I remember that version of Le Dandy. It always smelled very like armagnac to me in the dry down though perhaps it was peach brandy all the time. Anyway fun to revisit those perfumes and I do enjoy the work of Thomas Fontaine whose Black Jade is I think one of the best in the Lubin line.

    • Hi Blacknall, Thank you. There is both a La Dandy and a Le Dandy, so with the brandy reference I wonder if you don’t mean the latter? Unfortunately I haven’t tried or at least don’t remember Le Dandy, but now I’m curious about that one.
      Black Jade is a great perfume, although for me the original Idole edt by Giacobetti is my favourite from the line. The way she uses the saffron is just heaven.

  8. Oh I was probably thinking of Le Dandy and yes Idole is such a wonderful saffron fest. I loved the original bottle too and should have hung onto it but am a bit of a revolving door (except for de Nicolais) so off it went. 🙁

    • Really? I would never have you down as a ‘revolving perfume door’, perhaps because you often write about your vintage perfumes 🙂

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