Quick Sniffs – Maison Incens’ Tabac Licorii, Figue Oudii, Musc Kalirii, Figue Eleii, Cuir Erindil

Today I want to talk about 5 perfumes from Maison Incens. The man behind the brand is Philippe Constantin and the perfumer Jean-Claude Gigodot.

I happened upon the brand by chance. A girl on a Fragrantica asked for liquorice perfumes with a salty feel (Scandinavian salty liquorice), and that’s where I came across Tabac Licorii. We decided to spilt a bottle, and I received samples from the rest of the line at the same time.

Tabac Licorii; Star anise, licorice, tobacco, violet, sea water and musk.

To me it smells of earthy tobacco and oak moss, sometimes there’s a bite of liquorice sometimes there isn’t. The same goes for the saltiness; like the sea breeze it comes and goes with the ebb and flow.image It’s a very rounded fragrance with a very natural feel, if somebody told me it was a 100% natural perfume, I wouldn’t have questioned it. As a liquorice fragrance, this might be a disappointment, but if you’re looking for a unique fragrance with a natural and cosy outdoorsy-feel, you ought to try it. It dries down a little warmer and perhaps muskier with a tad more liquorice, but still within a very natural feel. Perhaps the most masculine of the lot.

Interestingly the samples came without labels, so a fun sort of blind sniff at first, which luckily turned out to be easy’ish to verify due to strong compositions and the individual colours of the juice.

Figue Oudii; bergamot, orange, fig, ylang-ylang, violet, iris, leather, cedar, oud, sandalwood, amber and musk.

There are two fig perfumes in the line-up, the first one being the heaviest and perhaps more unusual of the two. It’s the unlikely combination of fig and oud, and if Tabac Licorii, was perhaps less true to its name, Figue Oudii certainly is. Fig is prominent, and it’s as if the oud is just the extension of the fig foliage. I should never have thought it but these two complement each other nicely. On the other side of the spectrum there’s creaminess from ylang-ylang, leather and sandalwood, which gives the whole composition a warm oriental feel. If you’re looking for an oriental perfume with more than a twist, give it a try.

Musc Kalirii; bergamot, orange, orange blossom, rose, jasmine, leather, vanilla and sandalwood.

Is characterised as a Woody Floral Musk, and funnily, it’s what it is, but again not your usual FWM: the flowers aren’t dainty but sort of ‘casually present’, the wood is not synthetic ‘blonde woods’ or whatever they are called now, but just a little woodiness, and the musk is neither laundry musk nor an animalic skank-fest, but just a bit of warmth underneath the composition.image

Figue Eleii; fig leaf, green notes, tuberose, iris, cedar, sandalwood and musk

At first sniff this one is much closer to the normal idea of a fig perfume; it’s fig, it’s green and those together translate into summery green freshness. However, it’s wonderfully paired with a creamy, milky tuberose and a more-buttery- than- not iris note, which gives this perfume a gorgeous opaline feel. I enjoy wearing this one a lot.

Cuir Erindil; bergamot, mandarin orange, incense, spicy notes, iris, myrrh, leather, musk, sandalwood and vanilla.

Although nowhere mentioned, I could swear the first few seconds of the opening smells of a mix of menthol and camphor. I’m reminded of tigerbalm in a leather bag, as the leather almost immediately takes hold of the scentscape. It’s proper leather, not suede, a little biting almost, but it softens fairly quickly into a warm and mellow base of resins, iris and just a touch of vanilla.

What I especially enjoy about all Maison Incens’ perfumes, is the daring to make perfumes that are a little different, and still eminently wearable. They are deceptively simple and quiet, but keep showing new facets with each wear and lasts way longer than I would have thought upon application. Another thing that hit me was, that I never feel overwhelmed with scent molecules blowing up in my face, rather there’s a naturalness about them which seems to leave a lot of space to take in other things than your perfume.

 

Pics by me.

14 thoughts on “Quick Sniffs – Maison Incens’ Tabac Licorii, Figue Oudii, Musc Kalirii, Figue Eleii, Cuir Erindil

  1. These perfumes all sound wonderful and I’m really enjoying imagining them from your descriptions! I have a weakness for both fig and oud so the idea of both together is intriguing.

    • They are really nice, and there are a few I can imagine you’d like, although I’m not sure if the fig-Oud one has enough Oud or Oomph for your liking, but I’ll bring them for midsummer for you to sniff. Actually, they are highly suitable midsummer perfumes come to think of it; mellow but vibrant.

  2. Ooh, you have really fired me up with your description of the two fig ones. I loved your observation about the flowers in Figue Oudii being ‘casually present’, and the ylang-ylang appeals in particular in that one, while the tuberose and ‘opalescent’ iris are calling my name in Figue Eleii. You can keep the licorice one (shudder), and the camphoraceous leather one sounds equally scary in its own way.

    I must say that those double ‘ii’s wouldn’t half get on my nerves over time. 😉

    • I must say the two figs are probably my fabourites. And the double ‘ii’s, well, not half as bad as saliiisssiimo and those other Hilde Soliani’s, right? 😉

  3. You know, after just reading your title, they sounded a bit LOTR-ish to me. The names I mean.
    And apart for the liquorice one, all the other perfumes in the line seem like something I might enjoy wearing. 🙂

    • Ha to LotR-ish! Yes, why not. I think you would, although I’m not sure they would be powerful enough for you. 🙂

  4. There’s a lot to be said for perfumes that are both offbeat AND wearable. These sound like more your thing than mine thanks to quite a few notes I can’t tolerate, but I admire their unstated yet unusual style. One to watch.

    • Yes, there sure is, well put Tara. These perfumes are really quite muted, so I’m not sure you’d be as bothered as you think about your non-tolerance notes, and yes, this is a brand to watch.

  5. Asali, your descriptions of these scents dovetail nicely with your artwork — so pretty, in a very natural and effortless way! Couldn’t decide which of the three sounded best, as they all sound uniquely appealing, but I’m thinking the liquorice would be the most me, with its outdoorsy bent.

    • Thank you dear Suz, and I believe that Tabac Licorii might very well suit you. I have a feeling your skin might be exactly right for it, I’ll send you some to test 🙂

  6. Not surprisingly, I’ve never heard about this brand. I will give them a try if I come across these perfumes somewhere at a store though smelling “natural”, as I’ve mentioned probably more than once isn’t a positive characteristic in my book.

    • Dear Undina, I apologise- I never got a message that you replied here :-/ And having been a bit off the screen for a while I only just noticed.
      I do know that ‘natural’ is not your favourite adjective when it comes to perfume. but at least these are a bit off the beaten track, which can not be said about most new releases.

      • Dear Asali,

        I would never suspect you in ignoring me 🙂 I’m barely online myself, so I completely understand when somebody replies to my comments days or weeks later (and I don’t even subscribe to comments – I just check back from time to time).

        In the recent months I’m drawn to “beautiful” perfumes: I’m done with “interesting” for a while. But I don’t refuse to sniff/sample anything; I just don’t want to wear anything that is not beautiful (for my nose, of course).

        • I completely understand. I suppose I mean interesting but beautiful, or beautifully done. Concept fragrances are SO not me, but something with many layers, which doesn’t go the usual route ending with a doze of white musk/ vanilla/ ‘blonde woods’ etc. I think that’s what I mean by interesting. As opposed to ‘singing the same old tune’.
          I think the more you know what you like, the less you’re interested in all the things you don’t like 🙂

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