Lilac-Sweeter-Sweetest- DSH White Lilac (2014), Heeley L’Amandière (2011), Soivohle Lilac & Heliotrope

I have been literally all about lilac these last few weeks. It’s a known fact that all lilac fragrances are made up of other things than lilac, that this particular flower which smells so very potent every spring, is not possible to extract… But, not one to simply believe what everyone says, I have tried to make a lilac tincture. So every second day for about the last week or so, I’ve collected lilacs when they were at their most fragrant and submitted them to 96% alcohol and an ultrasound machine. So far a beautiful albeit extremely short-lived fragrant lilac aroma has been the outcome, and hopefully, with this year’s cold spring, the lilac season is still long, and the outcome will have bit more longevity.

In the meantime, as it has been on my mind since my write-up last year, here are a few thoughts on a few more lilac perfumes.

First up there’s DSH perfumes‘ White Lilac, what I particularly like about this creation is, that despite Dawn calling it dewy, it really isn’t watery at all. No aquatic feeling like in many lilac fragrances, on the contrary it’s a very floral soliflore. I never feel crushed leaves, or meadows of wildflowers, but White Lilac is like bending a branch down to my nose inhaling deeply the sweet odor of lilac-time. The white lilac is known to be a bit more carnal in its scent than its purple counterpart, but I feel that it’s truly only is the tiniest bit more ‘impure’ towards the drydown, when the honey sets in, and so it really stays a pretty floral, with just a hint at flirt. WL is beautifully rounded and slightly honeyed sweet. It never even winks at functional fragrance or screechiness, and it also stays clear of any soapy or girly associations. WL is for you if you’re looking for an unadulterated beautiful lilac bouquet with moderate sillage so you’re still smelling just spring-like and lovely and not like a walking lilac bush.syren collage 003kopi

If White Lilac was tending on sweet, the next lilac[i] up is a little sweeter yet: L’Amandière by Heeley starts out on a crispy starch shirt and grassy note, but balances it with an almondy (heliotrope) note, which quickly turns into a pleasant lilac. It doesn’t feel like it’s aiming at the pretty romantic landscape and lovers under a lilac tree, but it manages to also stay clear of the functional fragrance-trap. It slowly becomes rounder, with sweet almond coming to the fore, while keeping a vivid greeness about it. I suppose it’s the lack of nectar and the metallic floralsy, which gives it a slightly more ‘cool’  touch. It’s quite close to a lilac jelly I have done in the last couple of years, a lilac jelly, sweet with a bit of tartness, in a hip shade of pink.

Last but not least is Soivohle’s Lilac and Heliotrope. This is a clear winner in the category ‘sweet-lilac’, it makes L’Amandière smell positively sour in comparison. The opening is a lot of heliotrope with a bit of lilac dusted on top. The heliotrope takes on a cherry like flavor scent, which made me think of some kind of liqueur. Not exactly Amaretto, but something in there feels a little boozy and made me think that I ought to do a lilac schnapps. From there it goes sweeter and sweeter until it feels like a lilac ganache, or perhaps before it turns into ganache, it’s was lilac macaron… All very nice and cosy, perhaps especially for a winter’s evening, when spring seems so very far away.

[i] By checking the notes afterwards I should warn that lilac is not listed, however, I would call this a lilac perfume, and I’m not sure how much one should pay attention to the notes as they list among others: faith, light, night, day, love…

for more reviews check out (White Lilac) Indieperfumes, CFB, EauMG (L’Amandière)also EauMG, CaFleureBon, CandyPerfumeBoy (L&H) I smell therefor I am


Pictures are mine, and the feature is a bit random but has got lilac.



10 thoughts on “Lilac-Sweeter-Sweetest- DSH White Lilac (2014), Heeley L’Amandière (2011), Soivohle Lilac & Heliotrope

  1. Lovely review, Asali. Did not know That white lilac scented more carnal, DSH sounds wonderfull.

    • The DSH is really good, it’s a lilac soliflore for sure, but definitely one of the most authentic I’ve ever come across.
      Thank you, glad you enjoyed it 🙂

  2. Asali, I am wondering if lilacs are very dear to the Scandinavian heart, almost like a national flower (a cultural flower, maybe?), because I remember when I met you in Paris, you were making lilac jelly then, and also Sigrun from Riktig Parfym loves to make lilac-flavored things (I believe she made a sorbet from them last year) — and they also feature prominently in Puredistance Opardu, as you know.

    Although it is not a note I seek out in perfumes, I enjoyed reading your lovely review of these three scents, and I’d love to join you for a lilac schnapps, if you’re experiments lead you there. Skol! <3

    • Perhaps you’re right, we certainly have the right climate for it. I also think that it’s one of our most fragrant flowers; I noticed many Americans are fond of gardenia, perhaps for that same reason?
      I wanted to include Opardu as it’s one of the lilac perfumes still in production that I like. However, Vanessa alerted me to the fact that the new batch smells different to the old. We did a cross reference check, and sure enough, whereas the old one was a nostalgic downy lilac, and a perfume I hoped to get my hands on one day, the newer batch for some reason feels a lot more like just another floral musk, with emphasis on the white musk part, and doesn’t do anything for me. I thought Vanessa would write up on it at some point…
      The sorbet sounds great. The lilac jelly is made, and is now cooling, and a schnapps experiment is also taking place, I can’t think whom I’d rather have here to toast it with than yourself 🙂

  3. Love lilacs but, as I discovered after my Search for the Perfect Lilac in two parts, I don’t like wearing lilac soliflores. On top of that, the fact that lilac perfume doesn’t exist (at least until you finish your experiment 😉 ), the only “lilac” about which I might be curious enough would be the one created by another materials but all-natural. Not because I like all-natural perfumes but because I might not feel cheated paying $$$ niche prices for something made with cheap aroma-chemicals. So if April Aromatics would ever release a lilac perfume (you mentioned a couple of years ago that they might), I’ll try it.

    • AA still wants to make a lilac, she postponed the project but I believe took it up again. You’ll be the first to know. And DSH just said on her blog that she’s working on an all naturally made lilac. I completely see your point with regards to this, both the €$£ and the soliflore, and personally always ending up liking soliflores more in theory than for wearing. For wearing it just has to be a more complex composition, even if I love it when then a certain note I love is dominating.
      I’ll let you know how the home-tincture turns out 🙂 and ps love your soliflore explorations, please do more

  4. Glad I finally got to this post!
    Wow, you make lilac tincture, jelly and schnapps – I am in awe!
    I have a sample of White Lilac which is good because it’s the one of the three that appeals to me.
    Particularly love the smaller montage (?) pic.

    • Thank you Tara, I knew while I was writing that the two perfumes with heliotrope, would not be for you and Vanessa, but DSH’s lilac is really lovely so I’d be interested how you like that one.
      Yes, I can’t wait to see how the tincture ends up, although I’ve been warned now, that the problem is with the scent ‘browning’ over time :-/ Well, it’s all just for fun anyway.

  5. I was at a choir concert the other day where they sang ‘We’ll gather lilacs’, which was quite prophetic. And here you are also pressing them, hehe. I am ‘impressed’ by your initiative. And I am now curious to try the DSH White Lilac – am on a Carnal Flower kick at the moment, so why not add carnal lilac to that?

    As for the others – eep, heliotrope!!

    • Ha, as always the wordsmith 🙂 Ooh, I think white lilac could be good for you. Funnily my lilac experiment takes me to the fact that the tincture is actually getting a bit almonds all on its own. Just the tiniest bit, but still, the sweetness definitely goes in that direction 😉

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