I’ll Take My Perfume Fearless, Please – Camelia Intrepide Atelier Cologne, Tobacco Mandarin and Leather Artemisia Jo Malone

I’m still here, writing from my old patience-trying PC, which is in desperate need of being exchanged for a younger model.
When it comes to perfume and younger models, not so convinced…. As much as one understands the need for new blockbusters and niche-cum-mainstream/ mainstream-cum-niche, the new models seem to all be cut of the same caramel soaked pie in the sky.
Some companies thrive by using the gray area, the high-end department store, as a force, by making interesting yet wearable fragrances on a certain level with a strong brand profile.

I would count among them brands like Jo Malone and Atelier Cologne. Pretty on the shelf, great design and accessibility and wonderful customer service.

The 2016 Atelier Cologne release Camelia Intrepide is a name created of the fantasy note of a scentless flower and ‘intrepid/bold’, add the story of a female aviator (C-Amelia Earheart) from the PR, the fragrance has something to live up to. It’s created by Jerome Epinette and notes are; lemon, bergamot, nutmeg, camellia, orris root, violet leaf, Turkish rose oil, leather and amber.

We all know by now that notes are a guideline only, however here I was completely baffled that notes and fragrance had anything to do with each other. For the longest time, I’ve been looking for a smoky tea perfume, and basically, here we have it. On a friend, it behaved differently, much cuter, peony-rosy and ambrox like, but on me, it stayed smoked tea with a hint of bergamot with just a drop of rose. The scent strip smells that way too. Is it my smoked tea? Not sure, perhaps it isn’t quite intrepid enough for me…

Whereas the Jo Malone main collection has left my purse closed so far, I have on several occasions been pretty smitten with the seasonal Limited Editions. As the name suggests, these can be hard to come by, especially if you are the type who wants to try before you buy. If you do not have a JM shop near you, before you get around to try a LE, it’s likely to be sold out. I was quite excited to find that the new JM stand in a Copenhagen department store carries the LE, and the lovely SA was even happy to fill testers for a picky customer like myself. From this Limited Edition called ‘The Bloomsbury Set’, I chose Leather Artemisia and Tobacco Mandarin (both by Yann Vasnier).

Members of the Bloomsbury Group 1915

Tobacco Mandarin has notes of mandarin, sage and honeyed pipe tobacco. The mandarin is not a loud citrus burst, more a warm flavor, a backdrop to the tobacco. The tobacco is hay-like, it’s sweet but not overly so, and there’s only the vaguest hint of something smoky. That’s it really, at least to me… Pleasant, probably an office kind of scent, if one likes such terms.

The other one I was curious to try was Leather Artemisia, being quite a fan of artemisia also known as wormwood. According to the PR these are the notes “the striking green facets of anise-tinged absinthe blend with aromatic artemisia, soft orriswood and the deep richness of leather enhanced by the amber woody notes of Cypriol”. Orriswood??? Is that like Krispy Kreme? Like there’s no orris and no wood, so if we call it orriswood we are not lying? Orris is the iris root, and I’m quite sure they are incapable of growing into trees? Sorry, this is just me not liking the fancy-schmancy gloss-over ingredients which seem to pop up everywhere.
Leather Artemisia has a bit of green sharpness in the opening, where after the wormwood (also not wood, but different to orriswood, wormwood is the name of the plant ;-)) takes over with its dominant herbal sweetness with a touch of fennel, so characteristic for this plant. The leather is more suede than leather, and the overall feel is rounded, making for an amiable scent.

Both can be shared, and both are nice but kind of ‘thick’ in the structure making them more scent than perfume.

Overall, these three fragrances are all very nice and quite office friendly, but next time I would wish for a bit more intrepidness all round.


pic by me.

9 thoughts on “I’ll Take My Perfume Fearless, Please – Camelia Intrepide Atelier Cologne, Tobacco Mandarin and Leather Artemisia Jo Malone

  1. I really like the idea of all three but neither brand is known for being bold so I guess they were never going to be much more than very pleasant office scents. Shame, but I will still check out the Atelier smoky tea and the Tobacco Mandarin as both ideas really appeal. Probably like you though, I can’t justify the prices for simply “very nice”.

    • Yes, Tara, I suppose we are just not the target audience, but these days I wonder if we are target audience for any brand?

      • I was thinking this very thing just this morning! It’s baffling and depressing…

  2. Well, these new releases were completely off my radar, but the second of the three you review has got me curious. I am getting into tobacco notes lately and I always have time for citrus in all its guises. I am, however, not a fan of smoky tea or absinthe, so the others may not be my cup of tea! How l larfed at the orriswood story though.

    • Hehe, thank you for larf! Orriswood, seriously? Yes, the mandarin tobacco I could see that you might like that one, but with the amount of favourites yet unbought, I don’t read this for you in the tea leaves 😉

  3. A little sorry that the Leather Artemisia wasn’t darker and dryer and actually bitter! Too bad, more suede.

    Know what you mean about Jo Malone LE’s. Miss them and they are gone. These days I begin to be more interested in what she is doing with Jo Loves… She has something called Smoked Plum and Leather that might be interesting.

    • Yup me too, I love artemisia. It could have been quite sophisticatedly cool. Smoked plum and leather sounds good indeed, but I’ve never encountered the brand now I think of it… Have you got any experience with their perfumes?

  4. Ha! Who would have thought that your theme allows “likes” through the mobile interface! (Sorry, but it got me excited:) )

    I tested all three and my reaction for all of them (as well as the rest of the limited JM collection) was: it’s OK… Next!

    Tauer Perfumes, I think, targets mainly us (though I personally like just several of his creations). But, in general, you’re right: we are in a minority.

    • Haha, I know, it’s so weird, this theme as you well know has some serious flaws, but I do like it so much 🙂
      Yes and yes. I agree, the JM’s were all just not really exciting, and I’m glad to hear you found so too, as I know this is one of your brands.
      Tauer, I want them to be me, but after having tried and failed to bond with many of them, I must admit I haven’t sniffed the newest release(s=?). Though I agree that they both hit the target minority group and are well done. – Being a perfume nerd, I obviously had to check the releases, and I didn’t test the sotto la luna series, because gardenia and tuberose and slightly unlikely to be LOVE, and the two last releases to the main series called ‘lonesome rider’ and ‘Au coeur du déssert’, sounded too much like L’AdDM and Lonestar memory, for me to actively seek them out.

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