Imagine this; yours sincerely has just been baking Spekulatius from old wooden cookie molds ad nauseam, and that smell of spices and loads of butter and sugar would be enough for even the most ardent sugar addicts. With my brains thus exchanged for cookie-batter, I reached for my Atelier Cologne samples , and choose of all things; Vanille Insensée (Foolish Vanilla), the moment it went on the skin I realized that it was perhaps somewhat foolish to add more sweetness to my sugar-overloaded senses, when what I needed was something tart, fresh… But, hohoho, what happens is that this vanilla although sweet, is really not tooth-achy or syrupy, but grown-up and bright.
The opening of Vanille Insensée is about the blend of the citrusy-colognial notes with the vanilla lurking just underneath. It’s a fresh without stealing the soul from the vanilla pods. It doesn’t stick to your skin like a sticky toffee pudding, but floats just above it.
The citrus is exchanged for vetiver and again, it balances the sweetness of the vanilla beautifully, giving the vanilla a green and dry aspect that I enjoy. As it becomes ever more woody, it feels like opening the vintage wooden spice cupboard at your grandmother’s, taking in the smell of aged wood as much as the vanilla pod which must have been left open at this particular occasion. Towards the end musk and amber fluffiness is added but still manages to feel cuddly without being cloying.
Vanille Insensée is a non-cloying vanilla and would work great for anyone who likes to have their cookie and bake eat it, not wear it.
The next one I reached for was Vetiver Fatal. A great companion for Vanille Insensée as it were, with its vetiver note in common. I’m a bit of a chicken when it comes to layering but I’ve enjoyed wearing these two alone, as well as side by side over the last few days.
I like vetiver a lot, only, due to my skin often eating up sweet notes, leaving a lot of vetiver fragrances too sour, I am mostly left with admiring from afar. So when I first dabbed Vetiver Fatal, I was surprised when after about ten minutes of fresh cologne style vetiver, the fragrance suddenly started turning sweet and plummy. This is a truly gorgeous combination, which almost could remind me of a very distant, and younger, male relative of Therese (Parfum de). I keep thinking that I smell mint, but I guess it would be the violet leaf which with its metallic green tinge and in combination with the vetiver creates this effect. Vetiver fatale is nicely poised between the cool; hesperidic, metallic, verdant- and the warm; plummy, woody. It’s a fruity vetiver fragrance, but thanks to the juiciness of the plum and its velvety seriousness, this perfume too stays grown-up and never verges into Sugar-plum-fairy land.
Don’t forget the draw– you have until tomorrow Sunday to enter.
Disclaimer; the samples were sent to me by Atelier Cologne.
In a mixture of lack of time and the fact that the Atelier makes such wonderful art design for their fragrances- some of the images I just want to dive right into- I have used their illustrations as well as my own spekulatius pic.