Faux Fur- Cologne pour le Soir Maison Francis Kurkdjian

One of my favourite perfumes, Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums, has an amazing fur-accord. Sweet, musky, animalic, cuddly, embracing, kitten asleep on top a Lindor milk chocolate truffle*… You get the idea. The only problem is that this perfume is about so much more than just this particular accord. So while I love it for being exactly as it is, I have been searching for something which held on to this fur-note- perhaps even a soli-furgrance…Woman-With-A-Lion friant

Going through everything that I could think of without much luck, I reached out to the lovely and knowledgeable people on a German perfume forum. There were many great ideas**, but mostly things got either a bit too plain musky or too foody, or just not quite right. Only one really hit the spot, but then one of course is all I need.

Cologne pour le Soir*** by Francis Kurkdjian opens sweetly animalic, like dark brown honey. Up through that rises a smoky light incense and resins (do I detect myrrh?) of a distinct sharpness keeping the honey from ever becoming sticky. There’s a feeling of something musty and tucked away, perhaps an elegant fur coat only just out of the cupboard to be worn for the first snow.a-beauty_and_the_beast_by_adolphe_weisz-1429962otero sotherbys

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are roses too, but more like nectar from which the bees produced the honey. This adds a feline and feminine elegance to the fragrance. A soft leather note merges with the fur, giving off that sense of a sniffing a sleepy warm animal.

And for me the absolute dry-down is faintly reminiscent of creamy smooth milk chocolate truffle and a musk that purrhaps smells civet. Looks like someone did fall asleep on that Lindor chocolate after all…

Cologne pour le Soir is a linear fragrance, everything melds together as the perfume becomes one smell, one memory, rather than notes. Apparently it is supposed to evoke the perfumer’s fragrant childhood memory of hiding in his mother’s fur coat. And I can see what he meant. It is a perfume of a specific memory, his, mine, yours… It is something that captures one moment of the past, and holds it in a time-capsule all the way till the end, when the last muskiness has left, and you are no longer certain if there’s perfume or it is in fact your own skin which gives off this fragrance.

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*Yes, this is a true story.

** The list included; Zibeline(new version), Cuir Fauve, L’Ombre Fauve, Felanilla, 1996 Inez and Vinoodh, L’air de Rien, Obsession, Fourreau Noir, Akkad, Geisha Noir, Vetiver Velour, Fetish, Arabian Horse. For anyone who might like this idea, and want to investigate for them selves, I could add; Cuirelle Ramon Monegal and Parfum Sacre Caron.

***Cologne Pour le Soir, has got no cumin like its sibling Absolue, it also has nothing to do with a traditional cologne, it’s not a hesperidic fragrance and it’s longevity is excellent.

Pictures top to bottom, feature is mine, Friant; Woman with a Lion, Adolphe Weisz; The Beauty and the Beast, Otero taken from Sotherby’s, Bette Davis with kitten from we hunted the mammoth and Persian kitten with Lindor Chocolate truffles anonymous online photo. maxresdefault

 

14 thoughts on “Faux Fur- Cologne pour le Soir Maison Francis Kurkdjian

  1. Furgrance?! Love that word! 😀

    I for one, am a huge fan of Absolue pour le Soir, unfortunately, I don’t think many people might appreciate my love of it so I don’t really wear it. But I would love to.
    I couldn’t agree more with adding Cuirelle to the list, it definitely reminds me of grey fur.

    Now I need to smell the Cologne pour le Soir. Honestly, I can’t remember if I ever smelled it but I somehow think I should have…

    P.S. I still hate the fact I can’t click Like on your posts. 🙁

    • Furgrance, thanks glad you like it 🙂 Sorry, I promise I WILL sort the ‘like’-problem soon.
      As to Absolue, I think you might be right about not many people appreciating you smelling of Chicken Tikka Masala and Turkish Delight 😉 No, sorry, it’s not that bad, it’s just the cumin that kills it for me, and I do think that if you love it- you should definitely wear it.

  2. I was so traumatized by Absolue pour le Soir that I wouldn’t have even thought about trying this one (even after your wonderful review!) if it weren’t for that *** footnote.

    Coming from the environment, in which real fur coats and hats were less of a fashion statement and more of a necessity and faux fur clothing had nothing to do with PETA’s ideas, I don’t think the note you’ve described is something I’m particularly drawn to but I keep testing different perfumes and who knows what might happen with that kitten and chocolate pairing…

    • Thank you Undina, as you can see from my reply to Ines, I am absolutely not a fan of Absolue, I wouldn’t go as far as traumatised, but – just no-go. And really Cologne has not got the cumin or the sticky sweetness of AplS. I would never get the idea that they could be closely related.
      I know that old furs do not always smell charming and expensive, coming- to some extend- from a country where old furs used to be quite common and some furs like seal are still ok to wear, when bought from specialist Greenland stores. So I do know what you mean. It just has a little bit of that mustiness, and I quite like that here. I would be interested in how it would smell to you.

  3. There’s something really appealing about a fur-like perfume. A virtual, cruelty free fur coat wrapped around you.

    I think I got a ton of benzoin from this one. You make it sound so much more intersting than that but now I REALLY want to try Cuirelle. I will see if First in Fragrance have it.

    That main pic with the drawing and photo montage is fantastic.

    • If CplS was all benzoin on you, I do think Cuirelle might work better, or even Cuir Fauve. How strange it is, how different perfumes can smell and act on different people, I still manage to get surprised by that even if I shouldn’t by now 🙂 I think the idea of faux furgrance as a wonderful way of feeling warm, protected and still in ‘your own skin’- rather than perfumey.
      And thank you so much for your aprreciation of the montage- unfortunately the great animal background, was not made by me- wish it was.

  4. I’ll be joining Ines in voicing my love of Absolue Pour le Soir, and your review of the cumin-less cologne version sounds so close to what I experience (the honey, rose, and the sensual fur … or skin or blankets or just body heat). I have a feeling that loving the cologne version would be easy since I already love the absolue version.

    I smiled at your opening paragraph, as I remember your anecdote about the kitty falling asleep on the chocolate truffle, and your delight at that! (Your delight about the scent of her afterwards, I should say.) And the collage you made for this post is wonderful – you can look at it and know how Cologne Pour le Soir smells to you, without any words at all.

    • Suzanne, I knew you would remember and I did nearly wink at you here 🙂
      If this is what AplS smells like to you, I wonder if perhaps you’ll find the CplS a little tame in comparison? I know you loved Mamluk and Hedonist too, which are both very honeyed so I can see the Absolue working beautifully for you.
      Thank you so much for the compliment on the collage, I couldn’t wish for more <3

  5. Cologne pour le Soir is definitely a “snuggle” scent for me. Somehow, this fragrance reminds me of the time when I was living in Africa… In reality, the place didn’t have that good smell, but, you know, memories can alter the fact. 😉
    The drawing is absolutely fabulous!

    • Hi Magpie, that was what I meant, that this perfume has this way of enhanceing a memory, so I’m glad to hear you feel this way too. Excting about Africa, I hope you’ll one day write something about that, or show us some of your photos or drawings from there (I just assume you must have done some)?
      I never thought I’d find something called a cologne a snuggle-scent, but it definitely is 🙂 And thanks a lot for the compliment.

  6. Another vote for soli-furgrance as a totally splendid coinage! Like Undina, I was traumatised by Absolue and am not sure I have given this scent any chance to prove that not all ‘Pour le Soirs’ are the same. May I also say how much I love your illustration for this one.

    Now it is not my normal MO to link to a blog post of my own, but the kitten on a Lindt chocolate image was an opener I couldn’t refuse. Just clock the photo at the top for an inverted scenario….

    http://bonkersaboutperfume.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/lindt-and-fluff-bonkers-cat-litter-hat.html

    • Oh soul-sister, you are always welcome to link to such a beautifully related post. I had forgotten all about that picture/ post (how could I?). Seems that not all cats are created equal when it comes to loving Lindors, the same way not every Pour le Soir is created equally traumatising. Even if my experience with Absolue wasn’t exactly trauma, it wasn’t an encounter I would happily repeat either.
      And thanks and thanks for your wonderful compliments <3

  7. Catching up on my blog reading. 🙂 You have made me really want to go find a bunch of kitten fur perfumes and curl up in front of a fire with a book. Since I lack all three things (well, four really, if one counts the weather that would make it necessary to have a fire), I will have to live vicariously through you! Love this piece of art, as usual, too.

    • Dear Natalie, so lovely that you’re stopping by. I suppose if the weather doesn’t quite make it curling-up-worthy, it means you’re back down under? Well, I might have the weather and the furgrance- but I lack the real life kitten and fire, so I’ll spray vigorously, then add an extra spray for you- and light a few candles 🙂

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