Crimson Petals – Evody D’Âme de Pique (2014)

Apart from this year’s white floral summer stables; Mahora, Vamp in NY and Terracotta le Parfum, a perfume I’ve been wearing a lot is Evody’s summeroriental D’Âme de Pique* gifted to me by a wonderful friend.

I first encountered the house Evody at Boutique Jovoy in Paris, on my first visit there, when it was still a shop ‘Parfums rares’ in Rue de Danielle Casanova. I was taken with a few of their perfumes and the very reasonable price tag. Of the ones I remember, were a fine amber perfume, Ambre Intense, and a plush peach-iris floriental, Note de Luxe. In 2014 they added the collection d’ailleurs to the line-up, in which D’âme de Pique featured.

Through the opening I think one would be forgiven for thinking that D’Âme de Pique with its pear, raspberry and rose was a fruity floral, at least until the woody ambery base starts to shimmer through the layers from below.

A. F. Graves Still life with roses and raspberries

It’s all about getting the delicate balance between tangy and sweet right, and that’s exactly what it does: the tart, green black currant leafs versus juicy pear to start, in the heart the contrast is between that of luscious rose and piquant raspberries. The base, as already mentioned, is a creamy thing of vanilla, patchouli, woods and sandalwood, none of which stick out unpleasantly. The woods and patchouli are never hard or raspy, the sandalwood isn’t cloying and the vanilla isn’t cupcake worthy, all in all this is again a perfectly balanced third act. A very discreet saffron note gives both the rose heart as well as the base a slight twist of something a little sharp and for a moment takes my thoughts towards the oriental. No eastern bazar, perhaps a crimson sunset.

This is an easy-going perfume, I’m a little surprised myself at how happily I’ve worn this fragrance. What could easily have been too sweet or too fruity, is neither, I find it smooth, luminous and yielding. Rosy, yes, but not cute, and it feels French, in that way where it could be dressed up or down, for evening or day wear after a fashion. From flats to heels, add a touch-up of lipstick and a few extra sprays ‘et voila’, the living is easy.

 

I’d like to end with some verses, just because the talk of crimson reminds me of this gorgeous poem by Alfred, Lord Tennyson.

Now sleeps the crimson petal, now the white
Nor waves the cypress in the palace walk
Nor winks the gold fin in the porphyry font
The firefly wakens, waken thou with me

Now droops the milkwhite peacock like a ghost
And like a ghost she glimmers on to me
Now lies the Earth all Danae to the stars
And all thy heart lies open unto me

Now slides the silent meteor on
And leaves a shining furrow
As thy thoughts in me

Now folds the lily all her sweetness up
And slips into the bosom of the lake
So fold thyself, my dearest, thou, and slip
Into my bosom and be lost in me.

 

 

* is it supposed to be a word play on Pique Dame/ Queen of Spades and soul? The Tchaikovsky Opera/ Pushkin short story? I can’t find anything to that effect anywhere, and since nothing in the perfume reminds me of anything to do with either, I’ll presume it just felt like a good name.

And a little aside on rose fragrances; it’s one in a thousand roses that doesn’t turn sour on me. It doesn’t mean I can’t enjoy rose centered fragrances on a mouillette or on other people, or that indeed the occasional rose actually smells ‘normal’ on me, just that they unfortunately are few and far between.

Feat. pic by me, and the still life of roses and raspberries is by Abbott Fuller Graves.

19 thoughts on “Crimson Petals – Evody D’Âme de Pique (2014)

  1. Woohoo! You found a rose you can wear. 🙂 Ok, so it’s not a rose perfume but still, that’s great that it is so well done you can enjoy it.

    • Yes, I would call it a rose perfume actually, the Rose is pretty dominant, just not in the ‘I am a rose bush’ sort of way. I am very pleased that I can wear it, but have not given up the thought of finding one that’s even more me. Although both rose nacree and parfum sacre I can wear and love too. Perhaps I shouldn’t complain too much 😉

  2. This perfume does indeed sound like a beautifully composed poem. Thanks for sharing 🙂

    • Well said, it’s much like a beautifully composed poem, not a big stage drama.

  3. Love the phrase “the vanilla isn’t cupbake worthy”. Is Evody a recent brand? For some recent I thought maybe it was one of those heritage houses.

    Great poem. I should re-read when I’m less exhausted (last night’s yoga class was a killer). I wonder if that’s where Michel Faber got the title “The Crimson Petal and the White”.

    BTW Vanessa’s Tralala sillage on the weekend was pretty awesome.

    • Yes, Evody is a recent brand, two sisters I believe, and I couldn’t find names of any perfumers.
      It is indeed where Faber got his title from, I didn’t read the book, did you? I started watching the series, but it was a bit too much for me at that particular moment, so will have another go at some point.

      Great to hear about tralala sillage; I do have that sillage feel when I wear it, as if people around me get more joy out of it than I do 😀

      • Thanks for the Evody info.

        Yes, I read the book. It’s incredibly evocative and I can well imagine a TV version being a bit much. I enjoyed the book but would say that you need to read the follow-up novel of short stories (The Apple) to find out what happens to the characters because it ends rather up in the air.

        I think you might be right about Tralala 🙂

        • Ah thank you Tara. The series has Romola Garai staring, one of my favourite young actresses and as far as I could tell it was going to be a good one 🙂

  4. Ah, that Tennyson poem takes me right back to my O-Levels when we studied it in school. So atmospheric. I am a bit of a fan of Evody, also Note de Luxe, Fleur d’Oranger and Reve d’Anthala. Note de Luxe is how I would have hoped Que Sais-Je would be on me. 😉

    Ame de Pique was not on my radar but I like the sound of it very much from your description, especially the base, albeit you say it is not particularly prominent. Always up for another rose scent to love!

    • Ah, first Tralala now this! Who knows, we might end up as scent-twins, hehe 😉
      Did you get to try Que sais je? And why the disappointment, Note de Luxe is cheaper than QSJ?
      I need to read what I said again re the base of D’ame de pique. What I truly meant was that the base is strong enough, but the individual notes are not sticking out, which to me is a good thing. Try it, it might really be quite to your liking 🙂

      • I think I commented about Que Sais-Je in your review of that one – sadly too boozy is my dim recall, though I have not tried the remake, only an older version. Note de Luxe was better in that regard. I don’t like boozy fruit in a perfume, or peach generally as a rule. I align myself with Abigail of I Smell Therefore I am, who famously described SL Arabie as ‘icky stewed things’.

        Am still up for trying D’ame de pique! Scent twins, now that would be something, hehe. 😉

        • I’m with you on Arabie, that’s just NO! But I don’t think there’s booze in that, I just remember icky stewed dry fruits with loads of cumin, oh horror!

  5. This sounds rather nice, Asali. Recently I’ve been trying some fragrances with vanilla note and found most of them were far too sweet like “cupcakes”. I’ve almost given up with vanillas but, now, after reading your beautiful review and Tennyson’s poem, I’m willing to have a go with this one. 🙂 Also rose in this one sounds really lovely.

    • I know what you mean Magpie, I’m not a huge fan of edible vanilla notes either. I did a post on the vanillas I love and wear, and they haven’t changed 🙂
      It’s a funny thing that, I think I can take a fair bit of sweet if I have to and it’s well made, but edible- rather not!
      The vanilla in this is really just a base blend, nothing in your face so you shouldn’t be bothered by it.
      Yes, the poem is beautiful isn’t it, so tranquil.

  6. I haven’t tried (or even seen in RL) anything from this brand but this perfume’s notes sound like something I might enjoy. Black currant leafs, pear, rose, raspberries, vanilla, sandalwood… Give me two! 🙂

    • Sorry, for the wait Undina, I was sure I replied, but as you know replying on the Ipad is not always a good idea :-/ Anyway, I was thinking that this one might be just your thing actually, so perhaps a sample will find its way to you under mysterious circumstances.

  7. Lovely review, painting and drawing, Asali.

    Sounds like a wonderful combination, except for THE blackcurrent leafs That is. Evody never appealed to me much due to THE somewhat dull packaging I presume. But I have gotten quite curious about D’ame de Piqué.

    I Will read your post on vanilla as I am curious what you exactly mean by cupcake worthy. One of my favorite notes is vanilla and I am always open to try Some new ones !

    • Thank you very much E., funny you should mention it, but if you go to their homepage, I think they have actually changed the packaging… I think I’m just not crazy about smelling of food, so that’s what I mean about cupcake vanilla, something you would eat rather than wear. This one is definitely a Floriental though, a lighter one for sure, but still. I could imagine it would appeal to you too, although you might have many others in the same vein 🙂

Comments are closed.