Brand-spanking Age-old Soliflore – Oriza L. Legrand, Royal Œilllet (2014)

There’s something ever so charming about old(- fashioned) soliflores. I enjoy them in a way that perhaps can compare somewhat to an office fragrance in terms of the simplicity of the structure, even if not the degree of inoffensiveness.

I normally prefer my perfume to be complicated and of structural finesse, but sometimes a soliflore is truly all I need, particularly in regard to notes I love. However, even if there are many new soliflore releases, there’s a different vibe to the new ones compared to those you find from old and long gone brands named simply: Muguet, oeillet, iris etc. I have tried quite a few of this category, and they are nearly always great uncomplicated single note inspired fragrances. So, for instance Coty Iris, simply a really great full on iris, would stand more than its ground around the milestones of iris soliflores; Iris Silver Mist and Xerjoffs Irisss.oeillet 006k

I like my carnations spicy, like pepper and mischief, not dainty and fluffy. When I tried the first carnation fragrance from Oriza L. Legrand ‘Oeillet Louis XV’, I found it a bit too much in the second category, and so it was more of a coincidence that I ordered the sample of Oriza’s new carnation offering ‘Royal Œillet’.

The first sniff of Royal Œillet is peppery and has an orange peel waxiness about it. It feels a bit weird until it blends properly on the skin with a great and unexpected myrrh note. This opening is not a quickie, it lasts a good while and took me some getting used to. Every time I reapply, I keep wondering if it will ever turn into a carnation fragrance. It does, eventually, and when it does it makes me truly appreciate that coy opener. In fact it turns into exactly that luxuriously spicy fragrance which reminds me of all the great single notes of yore. It feels deep red, almost burgundy, with serrated petals. It’s peppery but cosy and sweet from the sandalwood, and the overall character is of velvet and candlelight.$_57

I think it’s great that Oriza chooses to bring out soliflores in a way that reminds me of those old perfumes. Obviously, even if this might have been a real vintage composition, there would still have been a lot of updating to do I imagine, in terms of IFRA regulations, but also availability of ingredients… However, perhaps apart from the somewhat strong myrrh in the start, I truly feel that emphasis has been put on recreating, not to accommodate for modern times and modern tastes, but in the spirit of the old. Here it fits superbly; to the house, the design, and most importantly it fits the fragrance, it wants to be this exact way, no berries to make it go down easier, no disguising the old fashioned carnation behind other flowers, but letting it properly strut its old-fashioned-stuff with humble pride.

While we’re mourning many gorgeous discontinued carnation fragrances, we can rejoice ‘L’Œillet est mort’ ‘Vive le Royal Œillet’

*Main pic by me and the Legrand is from ebay seller Guenzone.


10 thoughts on “Brand-spanking Age-old Soliflore – Oriza L. Legrand, Royal Œilllet (2014)

  1. Your writing is so good. Loved “letting it properly strut its old-fashioned-stuff with humble pride”. I always assume soliflores wouldn’t be complex enough for me but you really get across the retro charm of fragrances like this. I must admit I’ve never tried anything from this brand.

    The different tones of colour you get in on the carnation heads in your illustration are fab.

    • Dear Tara, thank you so much. I think this one oozes retro charm, but I wouldn’t say that for all perfumes in this brand, some might feel simply ‘a bit stuck in the past’ to some noses, although I haven’t actually been through half of the samples yet 😉 I think they are definitely worth testing for that old-fashioned vibe though.There aren’t that many out there so commited to being truly retro that Oriza is different enough to be exciting. A lot more so than yet another oud, or new minimalist concept.

  2. Well, much as I don’t care for carnation as a note (the evil scent twin is in the building again!), I loved your description of velvet and candlelight and serrated petals so much that I would be game to give this a go. Not least because of the ‘great and unexpected myrrh note’ which persists for some time while the carnation defers its appearance. Was with a friend tonight retesting some incense samples I had given her: everything from DSH Nag Champa to CdG Avignon, and it made me realise how much I love incense. Maybe I could handle the late arriving carnation after all…

    • Yes, and I realise that my next perfume-post will be one for my evil scent twin too, as opposed to actually one you’d like 😉 BUT also with a twist, so that I think you miiight just be ok with it, perhaps even a gateway, who knows?
      There is no sense of incense in Royal Oeillet (he), but as you point out yourself the prolonged opening of myrrh and the velvety feeling would perhaps make you not perceive this so much as a carnation to dislike.

  3. I like carnations the same way you do and this one truly sounds very tempting. 🙂
    I haven’t ordered samples in ages but now you got me eager to do so. Thank you!

    • Tell me about about it, ordering samples is getting harder and harder 😉 One tends to forget that it actually is fun sniffing new things, even if not everything is a big ‘love’ or ‘want’ fragrance, and even if it is expensive too.

  4. Asali, on the whole, I’m not drawn to soliflores, but must agree with everyone above that you make this sound so retro-charming, and I do love carnation. This company must be doing a great job with their perfumes, as I keep seeing very favorable reviews.

    Oh, and I could dive into our painting. It’s looks like I’d have such a plush (and fragrant) landing! 😉

    • I understand, neither am I, I think I’m worried they would bore me, and very few floral notes make me want to have a soliflore. I think if you accept the premise of them really doing retro perfumes in a somewhat ‘innocent’-style, then they actually have some reaaly good perfumes in their line-up. I took me some time to figure that out though ;-), and Chypre Mousse for example was absolutely not for me.
      Thank you 🙂 please dive ( it was made in ‘your’ book- which I keep for special things only, it’s such a joy to use)

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