An Eastern- Easter Lily- Turandot 1926 by Histoires de Parfums (2014)

I was rummaging through my perfumes trying to find ones which has a prominent narcissus note, or Easter lily as it’s called here, as it seemed the perfect match for today.

So how many narcissus perfumes do you own? Turns out that I don’t have all that many; actually I was looking at vintage Narcisse Noir EdT (Caron), a great perfume which happens to be one of the few that always brings in compliments, much to my own bewilderment, because great as it is, it does smell rather poisonous to me and always reminds me a little of the bad half of the snow-white apple. The other is the discontinued Fleurs de Narcisse from L’Artisan Parfumeur, which would have been very suitable, but since it’s more or less unobtainable, it wasn’t quite what I was looking for either.ny indstilling sony åbner ikke 1504

I ended up with 1926 from Histoires de Parfums’ opera collection, a collection I have previously written about. This time it’s perfumer Gérald Ghislain’s interpretation of the opera Turandot by Puccini[1], a rather beautiful narcissus-oriental perfume, which I have been wearing.

The perfume starts with a very true and decisive narcissus,happy easter 001 and that strange almost chorine like sharpness of the narcissus accentuated by means of ginger. On my skin it is sharper and seems more poisonous yellow, than on the mouillette, where it’s softer and a bit sweet as soon as a subtle juicy pear scent sets in. I would say it’s almost pretty, yet in an adult way, just with that touch of razor sharpness.

Even when the top starts blending into the heart of jasmine and carnation, I still feel that the narcissus plays the first violin to a very subdued powdery, hardly spicy at all, carnation and a well behaved jasmine, just enough for a feminine touch. Even here it’s still the narcissus which provides the backbone, keeping this perfume expensively elegant.

The dry down according to the official notes is patchouli, amber, leather and incense, again something that sounds a lot more ‘in your face’ than this fragrance ever becomes. The slightly bitter and non-smoky incense ties in with the ginger and the narcissus to keep a tart trail throughout the perfume. All notes are beautifully intertwined, and I do perceive soft floral-tinted leather as well as fruity amber chord, but truly everything here is so subtle, quiet even, especially compared both to the materials used and some of the regular line-up by HdPs. The whole fragrance almost reminds me of something that wouldn’t be out of place at the MDCI line, in that whole quiet elegance way.

I like Turandot- the perfume very much. It doesn’t remind me at all of anything to do with Turandot, but my image there might also be slightly tainted, but that’s another story which will have to wait.

Happy Easter and happy spring!ny indstilling sony åbner ikke 1508

1 The one with the famous aria, dragged through the mud by several talent show competitors. The real deal is HERE

And don’t think for a moment that this was the first time that perfume history was inspired by Puccini’s opera. The supporting role of Liu, Price Calaf’s sister, was the inspiration for Guerlain’s perfume of that name back in 1929.

 

* Pics are mine and I bought the sample pack from www.histoiresdeparfums.com

10 thoughts on “An Eastern- Easter Lily- Turandot 1926 by Histoires de Parfums (2014)

  1. Happy Spring indeed!

    I found this post really interesting Asali because I’ve been looking for a good narcissus perfume for the longest time. I didn’t like the base of Le Temps d’Une Fete. Eau de Narcisse Bleu by Hermes didn’t say narcissus to me but I need to re-try. I’m hoping Penhaligon’s new Ostara might work but Vanessa’s take didn’t fill me with hope. Turnadot is rather out of my price range sadly. It does sound very MDCI.

    I love that Narcisse Noir makes you think of the poisonous side of Snow White’s apple!

    • Happy Spring dear Tara. Le Temps dUF didn’t work for me either, I haven’t had much luck with the Nicolaï- line unfortunatly. I didn’t try Ostara either so should try that. I’m thinking Narcisse Noir edt could work for you, as it will probably be less green/ poisoned apple on you 😉
      The price tag is indeed a shame, because the perfumes (of the opera collection) are lovely, and should be worn. However, like you I’m out too at that amount of money… You should try it anyway if you see it, I’d love to hear what you think of it 🙂

  2. Thanks for the review, Asali. I really cannot tell what I might think of this one. But since I’ve had poor luck with HdP, perhaps I wouldn’t like it. 🙂

    • I find the opera collection a bit toned down compared to the initial line of HdP. More made to please in a way, but done with great skill and subtlety. If you’ll like it or not is difficult to say, but obviously if your rate of likes are bad, you shouldn’t go out of your way to try them 🙂 ( especially taking the pricing into account)

  3. “The whole fragrance almost reminds me of something that wouldn’t be out of place at the MDCI line, in that whole quite elegance way.”

    🙂 Asali, your description of the perfume already sounded quite good, but it was the line above that got my attention. I’ll definitely have to try this at some point, as I love the MDCI line.

    I don’t own many narcissus perfumes either, but thanks to Undina, I do have a treasured decant of Guerlain Chamade extrait, which features the note, and I also very much love DSH Vert Pour Madame, which has a jonquil note (essentially the same thing, I believe). Now you’ve got me wanting to wear one of them!

    • Chamade extrait really is gorgeous, and I always mean to try more of Dawn’s things but the list just keeps getting longer… The price for the opera collection is off putting, but these days most perfume prices seem to go that way (which is an aspirational UP Î ) and it doesn’t change the fact that there’s something about the quality, skill and understated nature of this perfume which reminds me of the MDCI line. At a third of the price I think it would have made it to my wish list as it is, I’ll enjoy my sample.

  4. Happy Easter!
    Sorry I’m late with replying. 🙂
    This sounds like a truly good narcissus perfume and I’d love having a narcissus perfume I could wear freely because I have a small decant of Fleurs de Narcisse (which I love) but feel guilty wearing as I can’t get any more of it anywhere. 🙁

    • No worries at all, Ines 🙂 I just saw the other day that Chloe Fleur de Narcisse (also DC’ed) has exactly the same notes in the description as the L’artisan Fleur de Narcisse and both made by Anne Flipo, perhaps they are similar, and although also DC’ed I should think that the Chloe might be easier to come by???
      Happy Easter

  5. You made me smile with your comment about Narcisse Noir, which was an early scent nemesis of mine – threw me into a complete turmoil when I tried it, comparable only to Amarige at the time. My fave narcissus scents include that long lost L’Artisan, also DelRae’s Debut and Aftelier Haute Claire. At least I get narcissus in them. Ostara has a lot going on, and is more warm and sunny than you expect from a green spring scent. I must say Turandot might not be my thing, owing to the sharpness of which you speak – and the carnation, haha.

    • DelRaes Debut, I seem to remember it as a very screechy lotv, but it’s been a long time, so I should perhaps try again, if I see it somewhere. And I haven’t ever tried the Aftelier’s, you know Us indies, where you have to order every sample with the perfumer, making postal prices per sample really just too much… Ostara I will try I am sure, it sounds lovely.
      As for NN, not sure about complete turmoil, but yes it was certanly like nothing I had ever tried before. And a bit scary (Snowwhite is a scary fairy tale).

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