Jean Patou Vacances – 1980’s reissue Ma Collection VS The Heritage Collection Vacances 2015

Finally the new version of Vacances was released, and I got myself a sample as soon as it was possible.

Let me start with a little de-tour though. Some time ago I received a perfume bought at the big online auction site, an old (1944) version of a Jean Patou perfume. It’s one of the not well-known ones, and I got it because I managed to get it at a great price and because of the notes, particularly the one thing I was able to find out about it, was about a gorgeous sandalwood. Now when I hear sandalwood and we talk pre 1990, in most cases this will include the real deal not the newer, flatter ones pumped up with that sickening artificial stuff. When it arrived though, it was instantly clear to me that what I had read was a description of the 1980’s re-issue of the perfume, and since I had the real, early version, the emphasis in my perfume was not on the sandalwood.

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So, all this to say, that re-issues are re-issues and they will never be an exact replica of the original, as they will have to draw into account the taste of current buyers. I suppose for exact remakes there really is only the Osmotheque to go to.

Original Vacances by Jean Patou was created in 1936 by Henri Almeras, and re-issued in the 1980s together with others as ‘Ma Collection’ re-orchestrated by Jean Kerleo. Now the house of Jean Patou is once again re-issuing the perfumes, this time the perfumer is Thomas Fontaine and the name ‘Heritage Collection’.

What does it smell like the 2015 Vacances from the Heritage Collection? It’s a pretty straight up soliflore lilac. Heritage Collection Vacances has that fresh yet soft lilac scent, and it isn’t screechy but rounded and rather tender. As a soliflore it’s beautiful, however, it really isn’t much more. I don’t get a lot of development neither on mouillette nor on skin, but from the initial full on blooming lilac bush it does soften in a musky way. The strip dries down to a somewhat boring white musk, but on my skin it’s just a nice soft, downy fade out of the fragrance.

So what has it got in common with vintage re-issue Vacances from Ma Collection by perfumer Jean Kerleo? I did try to look for similarities but truly, the answer is: not much. If you were hoping for 2015 Vacances to be a copy of the iconic fragrance, this is not it.ny indstilling sony åbner ikke 460 Apart from taking into account maceration of the original materials etc, Vacances (80s) manages to be a lilac fragrance but with so many other aspects, giving it its deep emerald soul. Even if the sum of its parts leaves no doubt that you smell lilac, I keep getting whiffs of those parts; oh there was a jasmine in bloom, there a whiff of hyacinth, there a gentle mimosa… It has green galbanum emerging up from the depth of the fragrance, a non-pungent soft, dare I say feminine, galbanum, the mimosa adding a sweet innocent kiss and hawthorn with its more mature floral note, blending into the dark green, mossy hues to end in that true musky skin-scent.

To many, me included,  Kerleo’s Vacances is the lilac to end all lilacs. It’s a lilac fragrance, without hint of a doubt, but it’s also so much more, and doesn’t ever come anywhere near reminding us of a toilet cleaners or room sprays. It’s a perfume, yet it feels like outdoors and beautiful country gardens, it embodies that sense of wanting to halt time at its most beautiful and precious, and yet by wanting to capture the incapturable it seems just always on the edge to be sorrowful.

I realised smelling the two side by side for several days in a row that it has just made me even more curious to smell the real Vacances by Henri Almeras, and while I hope to try it someday, who knows I might actually prefer my 1980s Karleo re-issue the way I’m sure some will prefer the new Heritage Collection version of Vacances.

 

Pics are mine and I purchased samples as well as bottles.

There are a few reviews of the 80’s Vacances online, a comprehensive review and background for Vacances is at Perfumeshrine

Chez Moi- perfume around the house in pictures

Inspired by Vanessaand Undina’s posts on how we store perfume, and if we leave any perfumes out for decorative purpose, I thought I’d give you a little ‘Tour de Chambre’ on how I have different perfume and perfume related objects in my home. (this does not include the samples which seems to crop up just about everywhere).

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Shelves in the living room. One has the remainders of Boxeueses that Ines kindly send me when I asked if she had a sample. I left it out to be admired. The vintage bottles came empty as extras I think, when I bought some ‘real’ perfume, so I felt they could get some air-time too.

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012My favourite vintage perfume adverts. That My Sin one is simply the best! And a bit of perfume lit.

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Below: Above my writing desk- normally I wouldn’t leave perfumes out like that, but since I actually bought Carven Ma Griffe mostly for its bottle-beauty, it’s out for the moment at least.

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Right is my bed side table withsome good-night decants,and a Memo candle. I don’t actually burn it there BTW. Below: A view of my pretty random assembly of ‘glass-tray’ perfumes. Apart from the beautiful Lubin Etoile-bottle.

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Only thing left is my practising booth/ room. I’ll leave you with an ‘interpretation’ of that.

Where and which fragrant things you like to have around you?

image2All pics mine. And I have tried to align all pictures, but it seems impossible, so I apologise for that.

Three in One – Guerlain Le Plus Beau Jour de ma Vie, Rubini Fundamental, Hermès Le Jardin de Monsieur Li (2015)

 

Today some quick thoughts from me on three new releases. How very up to date I feel when I can actually write 2015 behind all three.

Guerlain Le Plus Beau Jour De Ma Vie (Beau Jour for short).043c I think Beau Jour is a cute little number. It smells of orange blossom sugar-coated almonds and fluffy little clouds on a clear blue sky on a summer’s day. So yes, Beau Jour paints the image of a wedding day. It’s cosy yet summery, girly yet not so much that it can’t be worn by women, it’s sweet, but won’t make you feel like you’re a walking candy shop. It has an effortlessness that is not bestowed on too many perfumes in the candied genre. Beau Jour is not ground-breaking, but as a take on a wedding perfume or for anyone who likes sugared almonds and orange blossoms in the style of Hilde Soliani’s Conaffetto and Kilian’s Sweet Redemption, this is a fine perfume and as always with Guerlain, an exceptionally smooth composition.

 

Sandwiched between two historic houses is Italian newcomer brand Rubini with their first fragrance; Fundamental. Fundamental’s opening displays a honeyed Tokay wine over cognac. Add to that a pungent currant note and a distant leather note and I feel this is more masculine territory. The liquor becomes ever more grape, almost raisin,-like and there’s a herbal dryness which makes me associate a non-present smoke. 043dAs opposed to the two other perfumes I write about today which have decidedly outdoors-imagery, this feels like an indoor fragrance. Something conceived to give an almost stuffy, as in non-airy, feel (gentleman’s club/ elegant leather coated bar… that kind of thing) and being worn on indoor occasions. The fragrance has excellent longevity, and fairly linear sticking to that chewy, generous booziness.

 

Hermes Le Jardin de Monsieur Li (short M. Li) When I first tried this straight after it came out, it was simply too early in the year and too cold to even contemplate such a perfume, so it’s because of a great friend who send me a sample, that I had a second try of M. Li. This time I found it very pleasant and summer-suitable. M. Li is sheer and transparent, a scent almost more than a perfume. I’m thinking that it would wear nicely as a body mist underneath your real perfume in the warmer months, making you feel incredibly elegant, and a little secretive, for splashing on such an extravaganza. Notes are kumquat, jasmine and sap. M. Li is a little sweet, the jasmine non-indolic, the sap easy-going non-crunchy and there’s no (detectable, and to me dreaded) cedar note, that is so often present in M. Ellena’s perfumes. It’s silky and light and whispers ‘fruity-floral’ so softly, blink and you’ll miss it.

Disclaimer; pics by me, samples of La Plus Beau Jour de Ma Vie and M. Li, send to me by sweet Rosenrot, and Fundamental send by Andrea Rubini after winning a sample on FB.

Other reviews of Guerlain La Plus Beau Jour de ma Vie; Sorcery of Scent, Black Narcissus

Reviews of Hermès Le Jardin de Monsieur Li; Bois de Jasmin, CaFleureBon, Kafkaesque

Review of Rubini Fundamental parfum; CaFleureBon

It’s My Party – Guerlain Vega (1936)

I’ve always thought of floral aldehydes as not my cup of tea, really. I can’t wear no5 (it wears me), L’Interdit (twee like a pink hello kitty outfit) or White Linen, let’s just say that it doesn’t rate the highest on my list of perfume complaints that the genre seems to have long gone out of fashion. However, I find there are a few perfumes that I do like very much, and nothing says PARTY like those. In fact I’d go even further and say those are my happy-perfumes. It just isn’t possible to be a party pooper wearing them. What they have in common is firework sparkle and a gorgeous sandalwood dry-down. And one of my absolute favourites in this category is Vega from Guerlain.

Vega is named after the brightest star in the constellation of the Lyra.

 

The opening is bright, dry and bubbly like the best champagne enjoyed in the happiest company. The aldehydes here are going off in all directions like shooting stars, one moment I find them citric brilliant, the next creamy peachy and I’m reminded of sipping a good Bellini.

Although there’s clearly a lot of jasmine, on me at least it never goes very indolic, but becomes part of a huge floral centerpiece of roses, ylang-ylang and orange blossoms, decadent and lavishly arranged, nothing spared, no wishes left open.2468-image-350-470-fit

The sandalwood mixes the whole cocktail effortlessly into one of the happiest perfumes I know.

Whenever I wear it, it brings a smile to my face. Vega is both dramatic and fun and it’s my secret weapon for big parties and on special occasions.joan crawford

 

What are your favourite party or happy perfumes? Does anything make you feel like Joan C. in the picture above?

 

*Review based on the reissued EdT in the series Il Était Une Fois from 2006. Discontinued again in 2014.

* Read a comparison of vintage vs reissue in this review of Vega by Guerlain by Perfume Shrine.

Feat.pic is mine, the Moet vintage advert without source, Joan Crawford in the film *Our Dancing Daughters’ from 1928.