I have been literally all about lilac these last few weeks. It’s a known fact that all lilac fragrances are made up of other things than lilac, that this particular flower which smells so very potent every spring, is not possible to extract… But, not one to simply believe what everyone says, I have tried to make a lilac tincture. So every second day for about the last week or so, I’ve collected lilacs when they were at their most fragrant and submitted them to 96% alcohol and an ultrasound machine. So far a beautiful albeit extremely short-lived fragrant lilac aroma has been the outcome, and hopefully, with this year’s cold spring, the lilac season is still long, and the outcome will have bit more longevity.
In the meantime, as it has been on my mind since my write-up last year, here are a few thoughts on a few more lilac perfumes.
First up there’s DSH perfumes‘ White Lilac, what I particularly like about this creation is, that despite Dawn calling it dewy, it really isn’t watery at all. No aquatic feeling like in many lilac fragrances, on the contrary it’s a very floral soliflore. I never feel crushed leaves, or meadows of wildflowers, but White Lilac is like bending a branch down to my nose inhaling deeply the sweet odor of lilac-time. The white lilac is known to be a bit more carnal in its scent than its purple counterpart, but I feel that it’s truly only is the tiniest bit more ‘impure’ towards the drydown, when the honey sets in, and so it really stays a pretty floral, with just a hint at flirt. WL is beautifully rounded and slightly honeyed sweet. It never even winks at functional fragrance or screechiness, and it also stays clear of any soapy or girly associations. WL is for you if you’re looking for an unadulterated beautiful lilac bouquet with moderate sillage so you’re still smelling just spring-like and lovely and not like a walking lilac bush.
If White Lilac was tending on sweet, the next lilac[i] up is a little sweeter yet: L’Amandière by Heeley starts out on a crispy starch shirt and grassy note, but balances it with an almondy (heliotrope) note, which quickly turns into a pleasant lilac. It doesn’t feel like it’s aiming at the pretty romantic landscape and lovers under a lilac tree, but it manages to also stay clear of the functional fragrance-trap. It slowly becomes rounder, with sweet almond coming to the fore, while keeping a vivid greeness about it. I suppose it’s the lack of nectar and the metallic floralsy, which gives it a slightly more ‘cool’ touch. It’s quite close to a lilac jelly I have done in the last couple of years, a lilac jelly, sweet with a bit of tartness, in a hip shade of pink.
Last but not least is Soivohle’s Lilac and Heliotrope. This is a clear winner in the category ‘sweet-lilac’, it makes L’Amandière smell positively sour in comparison. The opening is a lot of heliotrope with a bit of lilac dusted on top. The heliotrope takes on a cherry like flavor scent, which made me think of some kind of liqueur. Not exactly Amaretto, but something in there feels a little boozy and made me think that I ought to do a lilac schnapps. From there it goes sweeter and sweeter until it feels like a lilac ganache, or perhaps before it turns into ganache, it’s was lilac macaron… All very nice and cosy, perhaps especially for a winter’s evening, when spring seems so very far away.
[i] By checking the notes afterwards I should warn that lilac is not listed, however, I would call this a lilac perfume, and I’m not sure how much one should pay attention to the notes as they list among others: faith, light, night, day, love…
Pictures are mine, and the feature is a bit random but has got lilac.