One of my favourite perfumes, Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums, has an amazing fur-accord. Sweet, musky, animalic, cuddly, embracing, kitten asleep on top a Lindor milk chocolate truffle*… You get the idea. The only problem is that this perfume is about so much more than just this particular accord. So while I love it for being exactly as it is, I have been searching for something which held on to this fur-note- perhaps even a soli-furgrance…
Going through everything that I could think of without much luck, I reached out to the lovely and knowledgeable people on a German perfume forum. There were many great ideas**, but mostly things got either a bit too plain musky or too foody, or just not quite right. Only one really hit the spot, but then one of course is all I need.
Cologne pour le Soir*** by Francis Kurkdjian opens sweetly animalic, like dark brown honey. Up through that rises a smoky light incense and resins (do I detect myrrh?) of a distinct sharpness keeping the honey from ever becoming sticky. There’s a feeling of something musty and tucked away, perhaps an elegant fur coat only just out of the cupboard to be worn for the first snow.
There are roses too, but more like nectar from which the bees produced the honey. This adds a feline and feminine elegance to the fragrance. A soft leather note merges with the fur, giving off that sense of a sniffing a sleepy warm animal.
And for me the absolute dry-down is faintly reminiscent of creamy smooth milk chocolate truffle and a musk that purrhaps smells civet. Looks like someone did fall asleep on that Lindor chocolate after all…
Cologne pour le Soir is a linear fragrance, everything melds together as the perfume becomes one smell, one memory, rather than notes. Apparently it is supposed to evoke the perfumer’s fragrant childhood memory of hiding in his mother’s fur coat. And I can see what he meant. It is a perfume of a specific memory, his, mine, yours… It is something that captures one moment of the past, and holds it in a time-capsule all the way till the end, when the last muskiness has left, and you are no longer certain if there’s perfume or it is in fact your own skin which gives off this fragrance.
*Yes, this is a true story.
** The list included; Zibeline(new version), Cuir Fauve, L’Ombre Fauve, Felanilla, 1996 Inez and Vinoodh, L’air de Rien, Obsession, Fourreau Noir, Akkad, Geisha Noir, Vetiver Velour, Fetish, Arabian Horse. For anyone who might like this idea, and want to investigate for them selves, I could add; Cuirelle Ramon Monegal and Parfum Sacre Caron.
***Cologne Pour le Soir, has got no cumin like its sibling Absolue, it also has nothing to do with a traditional cologne, it’s not a hesperidic fragrance and it’s longevity is excellent.
Pictures top to bottom, feature is mine, Friant; Woman with a Lion, Adolphe Weisz; The Beauty and the Beast, Otero taken from Sotherby’s, Bette Davis with kitten from we hunted the mammoth and Persian kitten with Lindor Chocolate truffles anonymous online photo.