Faux Fur- Cologne pour le Soir Maison Francis Kurkdjian

One of my favourite perfumes, Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums, has an amazing fur-accord. Sweet, musky, animalic, cuddly, embracing, kitten asleep on top a Lindor milk chocolate truffle*… You get the idea. The only problem is that this perfume is about so much more than just this particular accord. So while I love it for being exactly as it is, I have been searching for something which held on to this fur-note- perhaps even a soli-furgrance…Woman-With-A-Lion friant

Going through everything that I could think of without much luck, I reached out to the lovely and knowledgeable people on a German perfume forum. There were many great ideas**, but mostly things got either a bit too plain musky or too foody, or just not quite right. Only one really hit the spot, but then one of course is all I need.

Cologne pour le Soir*** by Francis Kurkdjian opens sweetly animalic, like dark brown honey. Up through that rises a smoky light incense and resins (do I detect myrrh?) of a distinct sharpness keeping the honey from ever becoming sticky. There’s a feeling of something musty and tucked away, perhaps an elegant fur coat only just out of the cupboard to be worn for the first snow.a-beauty_and_the_beast_by_adolphe_weisz-1429962otero sotherbys

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are roses too, but more like nectar from which the bees produced the honey. This adds a feline and feminine elegance to the fragrance. A soft leather note merges with the fur, giving off that sense of a sniffing a sleepy warm animal.

And for me the absolute dry-down is faintly reminiscent of creamy smooth milk chocolate truffle and a musk that purrhaps smells civet. Looks like someone did fall asleep on that Lindor chocolate after all…

Cologne pour le Soir is a linear fragrance, everything melds together as the perfume becomes one smell, one memory, rather than notes. Apparently it is supposed to evoke the perfumer’s fragrant childhood memory of hiding in his mother’s fur coat. And I can see what he meant. It is a perfume of a specific memory, his, mine, yours… It is something that captures one moment of the past, and holds it in a time-capsule all the way till the end, when the last muskiness has left, and you are no longer certain if there’s perfume or it is in fact your own skin which gives off this fragrance.

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*Yes, this is a true story.

** The list included; Zibeline(new version), Cuir Fauve, L’Ombre Fauve, Felanilla, 1996 Inez and Vinoodh, L’air de Rien, Obsession, Fourreau Noir, Akkad, Geisha Noir, Vetiver Velour, Fetish, Arabian Horse. For anyone who might like this idea, and want to investigate for them selves, I could add; Cuirelle Ramon Monegal and Parfum Sacre Caron.

***Cologne Pour le Soir, has got no cumin like its sibling Absolue, it also has nothing to do with a traditional cologne, it’s not a hesperidic fragrance and it’s longevity is excellent.

Pictures top to bottom, feature is mine, Friant; Woman with a Lion, Adolphe Weisz; The Beauty and the Beast, Otero taken from Sotherby’s, Bette Davis with kitten from we hunted the mammoth and Persian kitten with Lindor Chocolate truffles anonymous online photo. maxresdefault

 

Retro Beauty- Fiore di Bellagio- EnVoyage perfumes

 

I’ve been feeling autumnal. I suppose that’s what’s to be expected when outside it is windy and rainy, the daylight has decreased noticeably, and the leaves fall and the chestnuts too.DSC02493

Nothing to bring indulgence then like the right perfume. I was lucky to win a sample of Fiore di Bellagio over at Ca Fleure Bon, and having been on a major clove/ carnation hunt of late, starting off with a mystery vintage sample (identity still to be determined- more about that another time) and of course my new sexy friend Clove Absolute, I was eager to test this new perfume.

Fiore di Bellagio is inspired by Caron’s Bellodgia, and Shelly Waddington’s love of the 1920’s and vintage perfume formulas, so please listen to the perfect autumnal, retro * scenttrack  ‘ Das Lied ist aus’-( ‘The Song is Over’) here while reading.

 

 

The sample arrived prompt, already making you feel the excitement of the perfumer to get her perfume out and worn. And worn it has been. Fiore di Bellagio reminds me of burgundy velvet and candlelight chandeliers. From the beginning the citrus notes are soft and sparkle like the crystal prisms catching the light from the candles throwing it back with a soft focus, and they blend with a berry-waxiness of aldehydes, like red lipstick marks on wineglasses. I catch a whiff of old-fashioned violet soap, but it instantly blends with a skin-like muskiness, making sure it isn’t perceives as clean but only as sensuous, like being one step closer than usual to someone, taking in their scent.

From here, there’s a treasure trove of beautiful flowers adding up to a golden nectarish heart rather than that of a traditional floral bouquet. I actually never get that full on carnation, but I never miss it and the fragile spiciness of the flowers most likely stems from it. The orris root makes for a round and at times downy slightly powder puffy feel, but always balanced by the earthier aspects of the iris as well as resins and moss.

Now and again I get that little naughty tickle of civet reaching my nostrils, which gives this perfume just that decadence it sets out to achieve. I love the opulence as much as the grounding in Fiore di Bellogia, I believe the deep base ending in the maroon spectrum of colours is what allows the heart of FdB to shine without blinding, and also makes it mysterious and deep.

It is a really gorgeous and warm hearted fragrance, a truly beautiful vintage inspired fragrance, which manages to stay retro modern, if this is a trend; BRING IT ON!

The velvet curtains have been drawn- the song is over.

 

 

For reviews of Fiore di Bellagio En Voyage perfumes see Indie Perfumes and CFB.

*A voice like velvet in a 1920’s style: Jonas Kaufmann sings a very velvety and sultry ‘Frag nicht warum ich gehe’- ‘das Lied ist aus’ ( Don’t ask me why I am leaving- The song is over -1931) by Robert Stolz. I bought the new CD ( don’t ask me why? ;-)) all rights belong to sony classical. And if you wondered, I couldn’t make the picture for that smaller, or move it.

Top Notes: Italian Lemon and Citrus, Green Leaves, Ylang Ylang

Heart Notes: Spicy Carnation; Gardenia absolute, Jasmin absolute, Bulgarian Rose Otto, Muguet, Violet, Bois de Rose

Base Notes: Dark Vanilla, Antique Sandalwood, Iris Florentine (Orris absolute), Costus Oil, Vintage Resins, Civet and Musks